The plaster is likely around 13 years old. It is a pebble plaster, overall relatively uniform, wind present today making issue identification more difficult - but what can be seen is fair condition plaster.

On the northwest side there are areas of suspected black algae blobs present on the bottom x 5… but it is very likely just expired insects.

Overall the surface appears relatively normal for its age, potentially with another 7 to 15 years of additional life remaining, depending on maintenance and water quality.

Waterline tile: This pool has approximately 85 lineal feet of waterline tile. It all appears to be original. On the north side of the pool there are small gaps forming in between the tiles, specifically calcium fissure formations present in between, seen more above the waterline than below.

Split tile east of skimmer: There is one tile in particular that is a concern, and that is four tiles east of the skimmer. This has a split going through the tile, which happens to be right next to the largest raised portion of concrete coping next to the pool. The split goes all the way down the tile, and while it does not appear to be going into the surface at this time, it will likely progress over time as this seems to be a progressing issue.

Minimum repair and timing: The current minimum repair would likely be at least at the tile itself. If water loss is confirmed at that tile via water loss testing, and if no water loss is occurring or water loss is occurring around this pool’s tile, then that repair could likely be performed in the next 1 to 10 years, at the next replaster stage, to be the most efficient and most encompassing. A water loss test should likely be performed now. That tile will likely need to be updated, and likely around the skimmer throat will need to be updated as well, at a cost of around $1500 now, while that other repair work will need to be done in the next 1 to 10 years, depending on the water loss testing status. No major signs of water loss are seen now except for surface level issues.

Concrete movement: If there was no concrete decking movement and only this split in the tile, it would not be as concerning, but with the concrete moving and gaps forming it is likely showing that this is a red flag issue.

Skimmer throat: Additionally, the skimmer throat tiles appear to have a slight amount of wear but the real concern is a potential gap forming on the bottom of the throat on the east side, which is only again four tiles away from this other issue, leading to some concern in general of this area of more movement. Inside the skimmer throat where the tiles meet the skimmer there is some wear and gap being present, which will likely require attention at the same time.

Inside the skimmer: Inside the skimmer there are no major signs of cracking present, but one thing that is concerning is a rock that has been placed on the weir door, likely to counteract the movement that has occurred that might be squeezing the skimmer together, causing the weir door to stick, which of course would make the pump have difficulty catching prime or running correctly.

Larger deck and skimmer work: Looking at this at the 30,000 foot level, repairs will likely be needed in the near future that the concrete decking in this area of the skimmer, at least 3 to 6 feet by 3 to 6 feet around the skimmer area, will require attention as well. A new skimmer installed is around $3500. The price will be more accurate once the tile is removed to see the depth of the issue and the subsequent issues. To the west of the skimmer, where the concrete decking has moved slightly, may also be addressed at that time most efficiently, $3500 to $5500 and up for that as well.

Section total: $1500 now, $8500 to $10500 and up later.

The first one is the water chemistry results. There is virtually no free chlorine in the water and very little total chlorine. The pH and alkalinity seem slightly elevated, pH being closer to 8.0 and alkalinity closer to 80 to 100. Cyanuric acid appears to be around 60 to 80, and calcium hardness seems to be around 250. There don’t seem to be major indicators of water loss being present, but there do appear to be signs of algae present, at least in between the tiles, where green algae buildup is seen. No major noticeable algae buildup on the pool itself, but it is likely due for organic treatments to help reduce or eliminate organics, likely phosphate treatments, enzymes, etc., $200 - $355 and up to help eliminate this green algae organic matter.

Skimmer The skimmer weir door may need to be updated just due to age. The condition of it seems to be OK, but with the rock being present there is likely an additional issue. It was suspected initially that pinching might be occurring inside the skimmer, which may happen more during the wet season when soil expands. Either way, the skimmer may need a new weir door, will likely need a new float as this older float is showing signs of issue, as well as a float O-ring and a weighted basket. All of those will be installed for less than $600.

Main drain There are two main drain covers present. They are both of the larger 10 inch style. Both covers should be updated due to age and condition at around $200 apiece, so there are two of them, $400 total.

The bottom cleaner is one of my personal favorites, the Pool Cleaner 4-Wheel. It is working. It is missing an in-line leaf basket at $100, and it is an older unit, but it just likely needs to have its tires updated for less than $100, and potentially a rebuild for less than $200 if it has not been rebuilt in the past 2 to 5 years, which is likely.…

A new unit complete in winter is less than $450, and may be the best value.

The auto fill is running continuously since I have been here, and I would not necessarily classify it as a low flow indicating that water loss may be a potential. Given today is a hot, high solar UV, and windy day, evaporation is also likely. Minor service to this auto fill float is recommended, likely updating it, cleaning out the canister, and rechecking for issues, as it is due, at $125 to $250 and up.
Section total: $125 to $250 and up.

Next is the pool light. The pool light has obvious condensation present inside the light lens. This appears to be a high-quality Pentair LED light. The cost for a replacement LED light canister is around $700 for LED up to $1250 for color LED, and installation is around $400, or if converting to low voltage add another $400.
Section total: $1100 to $1650, or $1500 to $2050 with low voltage conversion.

The filter is slightly older. It is in working condition. It does have a lot of sun damage present, but overall it is functioning with no major leak seen. The pressure is high when the pump is running at 3100 RPMs, the pressure is above 25, closer to 27, indicating that the filter is not only due to be cleaned and serviced at around $150, but also that the elements inside are likely due to be updated at around $600 or up. At that time you would likely update the tank O-ring and O-ring set on this filter for less than $200 if this has not been done in the past 5 to 10 years, and then this filter should have some remaining life left, hopefully another 1 to 10 years of additional life.
Section total: around $950 and up.

Next is the filter pump. The filter pump only leaks when the pump is running, which is generally an indicator of a faulty shaft seal. Additionally, this pump appears to be approximately 13 years old in salt conditions, and the motor sounds grinding and of overall issue. This motor is likely due to be replaced due to how it sounds and water loss being present, likely for a prolonged period of time. The approximate cost on a new motor is around $1200 and installation is around $400. A new pump like the Pentair IntelliFlo i3 is around $1600 to $1900, and it would cost around $900 to install, parts and labor. This pump again is leaking, is grinding, and is going to be due to be replaced very soon, in the next 1 to 6 months or less.
Section total: $1600 for new motor installed or $2500 to $2800 for a new pump installed.

The heater did turn on and fire, however upon 10 seconds of running it sounds like the high temperature limiter or internal bypass is failing, causing the heater to not function correctly initially. This heater is approximately 13 years old and may be showing signs that the heater itself is due to be replaced versus repairs. The cost to replace this heater is around $4000 for the heater itself, plus around $1000 to install, and around $500 to remove and waste the old heater. Note that this heater may have some additional life left, and repairs could be performed for likely less than $500 to $1000 to help prolong the life of this heater if there is more life remaining. Based on visual assessment, repairing this heater would not be recommended unless the repair cost is less than $500. A service call of $300 is recommended to confirm the issue, along with the parts, but hopefully be less than $500 installed. Additionally, with a filter that is a high pressure, low potential flow, this may be leading to some of the issues being seen with the heater currently. Therefore filter cleaning and service, likely element replacement, and then diagnosing heater issues is recommended.
Section total: hopefully less than $500 for service, or $5500 to replace.

The board and timer is working and is in good working condition. The only thing unusual is under the display screen on the upper left-hand corner. There are some signs of potential issue through the screen itself, likely from overheating of some kind. Either way, this display screen itself if it goes out is around $1200 to replace including labor, but at this time it is working and there are no other signs of issue on it. Additionally, the breakers present are all apparently in good working condition seemingly, but they are not GFCI and they should be updated to GFCI, at the very least for the variable speed pump, at around $150 for that breaker. The plug outlet should be updated to GFCI around $50, and the light should be updated to GFCI at around $50. An electrician might charge around $400 to install and perform that work. Otherwise the panel itself is in good working condition.
Section total: $650 for GFCI updates, or $1200 if the display goes out.

The salt cell chlorinator is older and no longer functioning. It should be removed and a dummy cell installed in its place. The cost to update the salt cell is around $900, and it would likely require a balancing of the salt at around $500, for a total of $1400 to update the salt cell system.
Section total: $1400.

The valving all present here is likely original. Simply repainting and relabeling is recommended, as well as servicing the one three-way valve on the suction side and the one check valve on the return of the heater. Additionally, the temperature sensor on the suction side should be moved to the return side. All of this would be accomplished for less than $1000 including parts and labor.
Section total: less than $1000.