Recommend very minor adjustments to self close / self latch.

The surface is older, not new, but in relatively nominal condition for its age. Visibility was fair to poor making some issue identification more challenging (due to slight water haze and overhead tree light coverage). Overall surface is nominal for its age likely 15-22 years old.

Concrete deck The concrete around the pool and spa on the south side appears to be settling downward toward the south and southwest of the property. This is most evident on the southwest side, where obvious cracking and settling cracks are seen, and there is a separation occurring between the concrete coping and the concrete decking. On top of that concrete, little cracking is seen. There is some lifting coping closest to the southeast of the pool at the coping to concrete transition, as well as at the southwest coping to concrete transition, but the middle seems to be relatively the same level. Walking east, the concrete has settled some compared to the pool coping edge. Continuing more north on the east side, the concrete has settled slightly lower than the coping.

Traveling further to the northeast of the pool, the concrete sounds hollow on the second step, firm on the first step, and slightly hollow on the third top step. Around the north side of the pool, the concrete has settled slightly less than half an inch below the coping edge, more seen on the north side than on the east side. On the north side there are more gaps, and a more pronounced gap at the northwest side of the pool coping to concrete transition, along with a crack that goes all the way down that northwest corner, indicating that some movement is likely.

Coping Several of these coping stones sound hollow and ready to pop off. On the north side where the spa meets the pool, those coping stones all sound hollow and at different pitches and tones, indicating they are in different stages of detaching. Around the spa, several of the coping stones are hollow and loose, seen more on the east side of the spa coping than on the west side and north side. It is mostly seen on the east and south side of the spa. The coping on top of the skimmer also sounds hollow and loose, as do most of the coping stones.

Skimmer Inside the skimmer collar, the collar has multiple separation cracks occurring around it, indicating that movement is present. Inside the skimmer itself, there is no evidence of movement, but on the throat there is evidence of movement, mostly between the skimmer itself and the throat connection between the tile.

Spa wall On the west side, evidence of movement and likely water loss is seen on the west side wall of the spa, the raised wall of the spa on the backside west side. It appears to likely be coming through between the concrete coping and the actual wall itself rather than through the wall, although there are multiple cracks present and multiple signs of calcium formation, which again appear to be coming from the top rather than straight through the wall. Still, in several locations it does appear to have calcium coming straight through the wall, so it is difficult to determine its exact origin, but the thought is that it would be coming from the top rather than through the wall.

Vanishing edge On the west side, which is a vanishing edge, the tile on the spillover edge sounds fairly firm with no major signs of issue, but the tiles are visibly loose, with missing mortar and gaps forming and calcium fissures forming all the way around this spillover. It is more noticeable on the southwest side than the northwest side, but this entire area will need attention. With the angle of this spillover, it is evident that it is not level, or that it is lower in the southwest middle than it is anywhere else. This entire spillover will need to be redone.
Waterline tile The waterline tile in the pool seems to be in relatively phenomenal condition, but gaps are forming between the tiles and the mortar throughout the pool, especially at junctures like these spillover edge corners, especially the southwest corner. Overall throughout the pool, the mortar has likely worn in between the tiles, where black algae is collecting and proliferating in this roughened area, seen mostly in the skimmer throat.

Between the tile and coping are signs of overall issue, especially in the spa, but also some areas seen in the pool, recommended attention to prevent water loss.

Note that due to the amount of issues present, it is difficult to determine the exact cost to update all of these issues = $9999

Water quality indicates that this water is likely being maintained weekly, but is slightly cloudy, 10-20% reduced view.

The calcium hardness is between 100 and 200 ppm & the cyanuric acid level seems to be between 10 and 20 (both low - generally a sign of water loss / new water being present).

Chlorine is relatively high at around 10. The pH and alkalinity are relatively low. The pH is around 7.0, maybe even 7.4, but the alkalinity is low at around 20, which should be adjusted. Raising the cyanuric acid and alkalinity is recommended at around $100.

Otherwise the chemistry is fairly ideal, although raising the calcium hardness is also recommended at around $50. A $150 total would be an ideal adjustment. $50. Total $150.

Note that water quality is indicating it is likely newer or fresher water / recommend recheck in 1 to 30 days to help confirm water loss status, also note that the surge tank seems to be undersized / not in balance / setup correctly, at the end of the inspection, I found it to be overflowing, while upon initially visiting I found it to be nearly 1/2 empty = which could give a false positive on water loss being present.

Skimmer(s) x 3:

There is one normal / std. skimmer in the main pool, there is two overflow skimmers in the lower basin on each side.

All three need their parts updates, likely a weir door, floats, float o rings, lid on pool, and weighted baskets ($900 or less). Note the lower basin skimmers could not be fully checked as they are set back and difficult to get into - during visual inspection service vs main pool skimmer being able to be accessed easily.

Main Drain(s) x6:
There are two covers on each side of the pool, so four total, plus the one main drain cover. These are STX style covers. The four should be updated for safety. The one in the main drain of the pool, depending on its age, may need to be updated as well if it is older than seven years. There are two covers in the spa. They are not VGBA compliant. The only compliant cover is the one in the deep end of the pool. This cover appears to have been updated, but it is hard to tell how old it is. If it is older than seven years, it should also be updated. The cost on this one cover alone is around $700, while the other six covers, which are two in the spa and four in the pool, should be updated at around $200 apiece.

Cost summary: six covers at $200 apiece is $1200, plus the main drain cover at $700. Total $1900.

Was not able to locate the in floor gearing / hub. Working pop ups x 2? but likely the gearing is of issue - not all are rotating / working indicating that the gearing system is likely due for service ($500+) and updates ($1200+). Also pop ups may need to be updated $900+ - depending on age and quality

The levelor system appears to be active at this time. It is setup on a make shift level position in the surge tank - recommend attn to calibrate this / help make it more permanent if possible ($250-500+).

Appears to have condensation present 20-30% - recommend updating for safety ($750 like light + install $400

Condensation present as well, recommend updating for safety ($950 + install $400)

Filter The filter is likely original and very likely to have its elements due to be updated. The cost on new elements for this particular size filter is likely around $800 for OEM. It will likely also need a new tank O-ring and a new union set, all for a cost of around $300 or less, along with service of around $150 to update this filter to help prolong its life. Otherwise it seems to be in fair working condition, almost near poor, but with some life remaining likely after service.
Cost summary: OEM elements around $800, tank O-ring and union set around $300 or less, service around $150. Total around $1250 or less.

Also a new pressure gauge ($50)

Filter pump The filter pump is not that old, approximately 10 years old, and in relatively good condition for its age, with no major signs of issue. The only issue is it is missing its cover for its display, at a cost of around $200 to update. It will likely need minor service to the union O-ring, pump O-ring, and basket, for a cost of less than $300, and also adding a bonding wire connection at a cost of around $200. It is not currently connected. Otherwise this pump is working.
Cost summary: display cover around $200, union O-ring, pump O-ring, and basket service less than $300, bonding wire connection around $200. Total less than $700.

Pool cleaner and floor cleaning pump This pump has a new updated motor in the last 5 to 10 years. It is running fairly cool with no major issues seen. It likely needs only minor lid O-ring service of around $50 or less. This is a 1 horsepower motor on a Sta-Rite wet end.
Cost summary: lid O-ring service around $50 or less. Total around $50 or less.

Sump and sheer descent edge pump The last pump, the sump and sheer descent edge pump, is clearly older, probably one of the oldest ones here, or original. This pump is 1 1/2 horsepower. It is likely due for service to the pump lid and basket for less than $100. The motor on it is fairly warm, a three out of four, indicating the motor has some life remaining but not much. The cost to update this motor alone would be around $800 in parts plus $400 to $600 in labor and parts, which will likely be needed in the next 12 to 48 months or less.
Cost summary: pump lid and basket service less than $100, motor parts around $800, labor and parts $400 to $600. Total $1300 to $1500.

This heater is working well (went from 73 to 104 in 31 minutes = excellent), which is surprising due to the age and overall condition of the heater shell, likely updated internals in its past... Typically heaters last up to 15 years, and this one appears to be closer to 25 years old, even 26. Therefore it has likely been maintained.

Recommend painting the gas line ($50) otherwise without issue.

Plumbing and valves Everything on the equipment pad has low quality ball valves present. They are all approximately 26 years old and will likely be due to be updated sooner than later, with likely less than 1 to 10 years of remaining life before issues develop like water loss and air loss.
On the chlorinator there are two 2-way valves, one check valve, and one 3-way valve, along with an old actuator. The actuator to update would be $300. The check valve would be $300, and the two 2-way valves will be around $600 installed, along with updating the chlorinator to a new, fresh, correct, and most ideal chlorinator at around $600 installed.
On the heater, an optional bypass could be installed at a cost of around $900, which will include an actuator and installation, to help prolong the life of the heater or any future heater.
The filter pump has a spa 2 inch suction port and a pool 2 inch suction port. It has a 3-way valve and a 2-way valve. The 2-way valve will need to be updated soon at a cost of around $300, along with the actuator at around $300, and the 3-way valve will likely need service at around $150.
The floor cleaning system pump has an old 2-way valve at a cost of around $300 to update, and there is a second 3-way valve at a cost of around $300 to update.
The sheer descent pump does not have a 2-way valve, but it does have a check valve on its suction side and again a check valve on the return side, so one check valve, and then one 2-way valve that costs around $300 to update. Changing the placement of that check valve, likely to the suction side versus the return side, should also be considered at a cost of around $600.
Repainting and relabeling the equipment pad is around $500, and covering it from the sun using UV mesh is around $50.
Cost summary: chlorinator actuator $300, chlorinator check valve $300, two 2-way valves $600, chlorinator $600, optional heater bypass $900, filter pump 2-way valve $300, filter pump actuator $300, filter pump 3-way service $150, floor cleaning 2-way valve $300, floor cleaning 3-way valve $300, sheer descent 2-way valve $300, sheer descent check valve relocation $600, pad repaint and relabel $500, UV mesh $50. Total $5500.