There's white calcium buildup on the waterline tile, also located by the sheer descent spillovers for the waterfall feature around the rock work around the pool. The B blast service in order to remove this calcium effectively is estimated to be at 1,300.

This swimming pool skimmer is cracked towards the topmost portion. It needs a new pot installed and, very potentially, needs a bonding beam in between so that movement does not happen again in this place. The estimated cost to replace this skimmer and to finish it (cut it out and remove it) is 2,850. On the Morse minor side, in addition, this skimmer needs a flow valve located underneath the basket to optimize flow of the pool and spa, and as a preventative for the pump running dry. Lastly, there should be a skimmer weir installed within this skimmer outlet to maximize flow of the skimmer and to keep the leaves in the skimmer and to not flow back into the pool. Estimated cost for a skimmer weir flap and for a float valve is $150.

There's no float located inside of the pot adjacent to the skimmer pot. Inside of there should be a float that regulates the water and is connected to the valve and is always supplied with water. When the water gets low, the float pushes water into the pool. When full, it shuts itself off. This is a nice system to have to perfectly self-regulate the water level of the pool. In order for the autofill to work, it needs a new float. Estimated cost to install one is $145. In place of a float, there is an electronic timer that is currently added, however, it should be removed because it is prone to failure. I would opt for the float style instead. If you choose to utilize the current electronic filler, it is not very sensible because it will push water all throughout the deck, and it is not properly installed. It should be removed. Estimated cost for removal: $245.

This filter is around eight years old. Estimated towards the end of its life. Fiberglass eventually cracks. The fiberglass isn't cracked yet, however, it does need a few minor fixes. Specifically, it needs a new air relief and pressure gauge assembly at the top. The the air relief is brittle and old and is the original and prone to failure. It is recommended to replace it in one assembly with a new pressure gauge that you can actually see through, which is important to indicate the pressure of the filter and therefore how well the pump is working. Estimated cost for a new air relief and pressure gauge is $95 installed. In addition to this, there is a leaking tank seal o-ring that needs to be replaced to stop the leak. Estimated cost to replace the tank seal o-ring is $95.

There are no issues with this pump at this time. This is one of the original variable-speed pumps made by Pentair around 10 years ago. Still going strong at this period. These pumps are expected to last 7-12 years. This pump is at the end of its life. It needs a new union on the return of this pump. It is leaking at this time. Estimated cost to replace the union is $295.

This pump is working at this time, however, it is expected to fail at any time. Due to being ten years old at the end of its life expectancy. This pump is not safe and up to code because it does not have a bond wire fastened under the back of the pump. It does not have a bond wire, in fact, anywhere nearby in order to use . located next to the closest sliding glass door, there is a hose bib directly to the right of it. This can be utilized to attach a bonding wire and then routed underneath the concrete steps. It is not cheap to do this and quite involved, which in my opinion is why they never did it. Nevertheless, it is very important to save someone's life if anybody ever got shocked and water pulled up in that area. Estimated costs to dig underneath the steps and attach the bonding wire that starts at the hose bib and ends at the pump are $4,850.

Heater is working without issue, however it does not have a drip leg. A drip leg is to keep sediment out of the heat exchanger, and is technically a code requirement. It allows the heater to last as long as possible and protects it from debris, adding unnecessarily to the most expensive component on the heater. Estimated cost to install this drip leg is $850, materials included.

There's an exposed wire inside of the spa that is associated and is the wire connected to the spa side switch. The spa side switch is a four-function controller that turns on the lights, jets, heater, and filter pump. It is not working at this time and requires replacement. This is a low-voltage device and does not have a risk of shocking anyone. Cost of replacement is 12.50, estimated. The breakers within the control center, the automation, need to be upgraded to GFCI-protected breakers for both pumps. Estimated cost to install these is $600.

Salt system is not functioning at this time. It may need a cell replacement. The way to know is to clean and inspect the cell and to get the salt within range. Until this is accomplished, there is no way to determine whether the zelle is functioning or not. Based on the age, it is likely that this cell is not functioning. Estimated cost to replace one like this cell is 1,500.

Pipes need all to be repainted to make them UV-protected. Estimated cost for this is $195. The pipes are in a totally unnecessary orientation with about five times more bends than necessary, and it is not routed in an efficient path. This is adding extra strain to the pump by making it work harder than it needs to, adding more resistance to the entire system, straining the entire system, and adding unnecessary force to the pipes and all related components. The pipes should be rebuilt and then repainted to make this an efficient and clean system. Estimated cost to rebuild the pipes is $1950.