The water level in the pool is very high, due to a stuck on auto fill, there checked as easily, including the skimmer throat and the skimmer is a relatively deep skimmer approximately 18 inches with gaps likely present between the concrete and the skimmer tile, yet no separation is visible inside the skimmer itself … so this might be an area. One might wish to fill with mastic. Someone would likely charge less than 500 to perform.

No gaps seen between skimmer throat to tile .

The south wall with waterfalls appears to have water loss present, while this is not a critical issue for the swimming pool functionality as this is an auxiliary feature, it would likely take approximately $2000 or more to open the backside / affected area + re-waterproof on the backside, and resolve potential plumbing issues, to bring back to ideal working condition.

Note this is not a major issue at this time, but if left unresolved for another 5 to 10 years, it would likely develop into a larger issue.

The only way to know the extent of the issue is to open up the backside to confirm where the water loss is occurring, whether it’s simply on the lip ($1k or less) or the Plumbing ($2k+).

pH and alkalinity are slightly elevated and chlorine is nearly nonexistent, recommend attention and balance less than $50. Also likely recommend increasing CYA slightly less than $50.

And recommend actually treating the organics ($100 or less) (phosphate remover etc) vs band aids (pool rx).

Also note that the water level in the pool is elevated up, likely above the drain level diluting the water results consistently recommend modifications, which will be discussed in auto fill section.

Lower cya and medium cal hardness = water loss is not confirmed but low likely hood. Recommend re testing in 1-30 days to help confirm.

It is likely that the main drain apparatus is VGBA compliant.

The skimmer basket is due to be updated to a weighted basket ($50), and the weir door seems to be stuck - which I am unsure as to why that is the case, it could possibly be related to movement - still recommend service to resolve less than $100.

Recommend a new tail tires and likely some swivels and hose attention, and internal gearing / wheel bearings = less than $205

Even though the pool is overflowed, the fill is still running continuously, recommend minor modification / service to the float and or canister.

Two micro led lights present, without issue.

The filter is functional, the band is original, does not appear to be Leaking, but the pressure is slightly high, and I am seeing a lot of back pressure on the filter pump, therefore it is likely that the elements are due for service ($150 or less) or due to the age of this unit, a new element set may be needed ($300-500) and if so at that time also recommend updating the tank O-ring ($50),

This is a variable speed pump in working condition, and unknown reason (imo) they use the air bleed vacuum port - to Plumb in the ozone, recommend moving to a fitting instead ($500 or less).

As discussed in the valving section, a check valve is needed.

Otherwise recommend a pump lid O-ring service as well as unions o ring updating / service ($300 or less)

Note that since the ozone is likely no longer being used, you can simply add a $10 plug to the lower pump port, to save the $500 I detailed.

This pump appears to operate at a lower speed, which will help prolong the life of this pump & motor

Panel is operational, but the subpanel next to the panel does not have GFCI’s present at the very least a Siemens variable speed GFCI, recommend updating that as well as the Pool Light GFCI = parts $300 + $300 electrician

Note GFCI is present on the plug and the pool lights appear to be low voltage so GFCI for them is a formality for maximum safety.

This unit is likely due for service, which would likely include less than 1000 in updates and service.

The equipment pad needs to be covered from the sun using UV mesh 95 to 99% less than $50.

Equipment pan should also be repainted and re-labeled ($250) to help protect the equipment pad Plumbing.

Otherwise, the actuator seems to be older, but working and the valves all turn relatively smoothly.

The spa could not be checked because it is tripping the breaker likely related to its heater and or controller, typically these repairs will run less than $1500, the spa also appears to need new headrest and likely new filter elements at less than $500.

The controller does not appear to be in the worst condition. I am actually a little surprised that it is tripping the breaker.

I do see some rest and chemical chemicals thrown in and left in, which will likely damage the fiberglass insert. Also be aware that it appears many of these light insert fittings are cracked and likely leaking water. I would imagine that process to update those would run less than 1000.

Last the actual cover itself is due to be updated at less than $500