East side checked. Working.

Fischers present. Small only a few small ones.

Surface Fischer cracks (one larger one seen in middle shallow end) spreading ?

But surface / pool shell appears to be lower on the north than the south side of pool, if this is in fact true = This is likely a pool that will require a near full re model to resolve if it is in fact out of level by 1-2”. Note the tile level may have been set incorrectly (least likely).

The cost to correct this issue is difficult to determine at this time as it would be more accurate once opening the effected areas if that is in fact the case.

Any movement more than .5-1” is out of engeering specs and therefore cannot be considered working.

The surface itself appears to be in good overall condition considering salt condition, but fischers and wear markings preset as well at heavy mottling throughout.

In normal conditions this surface would liikely last another 7-25 years additional or more especially if salt was not used. But with sub surface / shell movement it will likely require repair / re model if movement and or water loss is present.

Issues present, there is a lot of deck movement throughout, mostly seen on the north side of the pool, but also throughout the surrounding area of the pool. The decking would likely need to be grind and filled with mastic to prevent trap hazards in a few locations likely that cost is $1-2k.

Do the waterline tile may be original or more than 30 years old, it seems to be an overall fair condition for its age, mortar seemingly at 50% of its life cycle. The only area that seems to be of immediate need is inside the skimmer throat, it appears to have been patched like likely seven years ago ? when the pool was re-plastered, and would likely need to be touched up again soon or when water loss develops ($500-1k+), which I feel may be required sooner than later.

Since some of the concrete has settled, and caused a gap to occur between the tile and the coping, there are some gaps forming and may require some mastic to be added ($1k+).

Chemistry results may be slightly off due to high chlorine levels, but it appears that calcium hardness levels are ideal, not typical with water loss being present, but CYA levels are low, which is typical with water loss being present, it is likely that the water chemistry is being maintained by someone, and therefore the calcium hardness level is also being maintained … I would give this a 50% or more chance that water loss is present. Recommend retesting in 1 to 30 days to confirm.

The chlorine is very very high, the pH and alkalinity are high, and the CYA level appears to be low, immediate modifications would likely run less than $100, as well as minor algae treatments for less than $100 as there is barely any algae seen.

Splitting seen at middle of skimmer.

Due for minor parts updates =
Weighted basket , lid , likely weir door, and float o ring ($300 or less).

Main drain covers is likely approx 7 years old and due for updates x 2.

In floor is older than updated main drain. Still likely both are close to needs to be updated ($200 x 2).

In floor cleaning canister could not be opened. Recommend service to confirm (white particles are coming out of it) $200+ as well as a new Sta rite lid ($50).

White LED Pentair ?($700+)

Appears to likely have condensation present inside the light lens and if so, will need to be replaced for safety

A new like light can is approx $700 + labor to install $400

Can not be fully tested due to limited pool pump run speed = max 2040 rpm.

Filter seems to be Working, due for quarterly service ($150+) to confirm status of elements as well and if updated is required ($200-500+).

Also recommend a new pressure guage + tank o ring set service $200+ due to age and condition.

Difficult to see leaks on filter due to overgrowth / dirt being present.

While on the outside this seven year-old pump or less appears to be in relatively good condition no major issues seen. But when you turn on the Motor and you listen to it, you can tell that the bearings are of issue and likely towards the end of their life cycle. This is a pump that could potentially be saved by service of less than $1250 to the motors bearings … but because of water loss seen at seal plate (a known defect issue) it will likely require having to replace the entire pump at a cost of around $1800 plus installation and programming of 1000.

We have a single yellow dial timer present with no GFCI’s seen.

I was unable to locate a subpanel with any GFCI’s in it either

I did spot a plug outlet breaker for GFI likely for the pool light, but I would still like to see this upgraded to GFCI as well, and I’d also like to see a subpanel with GFCI for the variable speed pump likely a cost of around $700 or less for parts and an electrician will install for around $500. Note these are optional updates, but I would recommend them for safety.

Difficult to tell if it’s just the salt cell or the salt cell and the power center worst case 2500 for a new salt cell and power center to be installed.

The pool equipment pad is not covered from the sun using UV mesh ($50) also recommend repainting and relabeling the equipment pad ($150).

There are leaks seen at unions for the end floor cleaning system ($300+).

And it is likely that the 22 wave valves and two three-way valves are due to be serviced ($600 or less).

I would also recommend updating the older ball valve and check valve ($500 or less).