The surface has many blemishes seen throughout in several areas. In the shallow end of the pool it is relatively in good condition with no blemishes seen. Moving from the shallow to the middle end on the west side wall there is a calcium fissure forming essentially four nodules with fissures coming out of them as well as one potential on the bottom of the pool. Moving closer to the middle and on the west wall again we are seeing one calcium nodule and several 3 x 3‘ squared roughly area of mottling present emanating from the tile waterline likely showing issue. Next we move to the middle to deep end where it appears there is one nodule on the bottom. Next we move closer to the deep end we see some mottling emanating from the corners of every portion of the deep end of the pool essentially four corners emanating some type of unusual blemish mottling likely all stemming from the same sub surface moisture issue combined with other issues during the construction phase. Overall I would estimate about 10% of the surface has some type of discoloration or blemish present mostly showing signs of issue in the deep end but also on the west wall. If water loss is occurring these would be the most likely locations of water loss. If water loss is occurring over prolonged periods of time then shell settling will occur more often and cause additional issues which may not be apparent at this time since the pool may be less than five years old but will likely become more and more apparent in the next 5 to 10 years. Note that this inspection was conducted when the surface was in 50-100% shade at approximately 6-7 PM = at no additional cost I can always return to reconfirm any results seen to validate the surface condition. I initially thought I saw a rebar stain but likely it is only a rock and there’s also another rock in the middle deep end as well that are rust colored likely have been kicked into the pool = pictured # 2.

Waterline tile appears all uniform and in good condition overall. The only areas of enhanced buildup of calcium is on the west and northwest side of the pool where the raised wall is located. There are signs of active water penetration coming through this wall due to improper hydrostatic relief i.e. channel drains or the like on the backside of this wall and therefore it is all seeping through not only the raised tile wall but the waterline tile mostly seen between the concrete and the tile and then also through the pool wall in some locations. Still the waterline tile will likely only need minor calcium cleaning on approximately 60% of the tile and then more dense calcium cleaning on approximately 20% of the waterline tile and maybe around 25% of the wall rock work. Likely the cost to calcium blast all of this would be between $800 and $1500 depending on raised wall. Additionally on the waterline tile where we go into the skimmer throat there are some signs of different materials being used and not necessarily tile which would not be my recommendation. Still appear that there’s a small gap seen on the southeast side of the skimmer throat and some gap forming on the west northwest side of the skimmer. It may be best to just re-tile this area and reseal it to prevent any future issues especially if water loss is found inside the skimmer throat. Cost to update this tile might be around $500 to $1000 and also when knocking on this skimmer throat tile it does sound somewhat hollow compared to the surrounding areas. Furthermore the waterline tile has some moisture wicking being seen likely coming through the waterline tile near the skimmer south.

Water chemistry results immediately tell me that water loss is present likely because the pool is being maintained weekly but what is seen is ideal calcium hardness levels but seemingly lower CYA levels. Note the CYA level could be thrown off due to the high chlorine levels but recommend recheck in 1 to 30 days to confirm. Still I put this at a 51% water loss status at this time based on water chemistry results.

Rec $50 In CYA

Main drain appears to be VGBA compliant.

The skimmer appears to be in working condition with blue glue seen. This is a water bonded skimmer. Recommend adding a skimmer float and floating in the skimmer less than $100 installed.

Recommend adding an in-line leaf basket by Pentair and likely new tires and potentially new hose segment soon less than $205

The pool is equipped with a float style auto fill. When I arrived the auto fill was running continuously during the duration of the inspection even when the pump was not running. When I initially arrived the fill was running at a slow pace this is generally an indicator that water loss may be present but we are in the middle of the heat season so evaporation may be common. Recommend recheck in 1 to 30 days to confirm also recheck water chemistry as well in that same timeframe to confirm ($20).
Estimated total: Recheck $20.

Also recommend cleaning out float can - lots of debris present

The filter has a small area of water loss likely seen at the front right of the tank pictured number two. Additionally the pressure is around 12 psi which also likely is indicating that the filter is nearing its quarterly filter cleaning service. Recommend approximately $150 or less in service to likely resolve both issues. Otherwise this filter is in relatively fair condition for its age. Salt conditions do not help with anything. I would also recommend updating the pressure gauge with a liquid pressure gauge at around $50.

Working. Bonding wire is connected to pump by not connected to bonding wire main line , rec attention for safety ($100-+).

The heater is relatively new less than five years old if I had to guess but there are some things of concern. First is the rust that appears to be emanating from this heater that appears to have been potentially cleaned up or attempted to be cleaned up. Still it is obvious that there is likely an issue with something inside this heater. Worst case what I’m seeing is the heat exchanger inside this heater may be leaking or was leaking in the past it could’ve been repaired but either way if that is the case and this heater is leaking from its heat exchanger. It is likely a $1500-$2500 repair and may just cause the heater to need to be replaced instead at a cost of around $4000 new plus labor of around $1000 to $1500. Still during my inspection I did not witness any water loss coming from the heat exchanger itself but if this does occur recommend service right away to resolve.

The panel is in working condition, we also see GFCI Siemens for the pumps, I just don’t see a GFCI breaker itself for the light, which is not required since it does appear to be low-voltage and therefore non-lethal, but we do still have a GFCI plug, which likely this is wired into, therefore the $50 breaker upgrade would just be a safety recommendation.

Low voltage light conversion.

The salt cell appears to be likely slightly older, only judging by the unions and the sell itself has some wear seen. I also see a leak at the return union. Recommend service to the salt cell at around $150 and then recommend adding salt to balance the water with the proper salt level for the salt cell to be properly tested likely for less than $200.

Note that if the salt cell is bad due to age and condition, a new cell can cost anywhere from 600 to 950.

The valve and equipment pad is in the direct sunlight approximately 5 to 6 hours a day from the morning to the middle afternoon therefore would be wise to consider adding a UV coverage using a UV mesh ($50) and also repainting and relabeling the equipment pad ($200). Otherwise there appears to be no leaks at this time but note that blue glue was used.