Water quality less than ideal: crystal clear but has odor common with high level of total dissolved solids in salt pools. High pH and high alkalinity along with relatively high total chlorine level and relatively low free chlorine level. Cyanuric acid and calcium hardness levels ideal, indicating likely no water loss present at this time, but with odor present recommend enzyme treatment to remove dissolved organic matter; should be done more frequently as pool not exceptionally large and with frequent use. Water quality will likely need those enzyme treatments and probably in the next 1 to 30 days organic matter treatments likely less than $100 but otherwise relatively good condition. No algae present on walls but some hidden behind tile between tile and fiberglass surface, relatively common in salt pools with high total dissolved solids issues. Mitigate by increasing pump run time, balancing chemical levels, and not letting them drop to zero in winter. Recommend another $100 in algae treatment starting with nonmetal algicide. Auto fill running at inspection—could be float trouble, set incorrectly, or potential water loss. Likely less than 10% chance of water loss due to water quality, but retest water quality in 1 to 30 days to confirm. Auto fill could be running to compensate for solar. Waterline tile on fiberglass pool is decoration glued on top of shell. Generally not much issue until year 10-20 when glue weakens and tiles come off; seeing some now likely due to salt pool causing additional issues especially where tile meets water through hot and cold temperatures. Tile currently in fair condition as organic matter growing behind tile visible due to glass tile; glue job C+ at best to B+ as tiles firm and strong but gaps present allowing algae on backside. Not major issue today but likely in next 5-15 years tile will need to be removed and re-glued; would not use glass tile again as calcium buildup difficult to remove without damaging it and ceramic may be more efficient but hard corners make reinstall challenging. Calcium present could be removed via tile cleaning service around $500 but water treatments would likely remove for less than $200 which may take up to six months. Appears mortar used instead of glue but in sections like above southwest light glue present behind tile indicating not enough mortar or incomplete waterproofing often only for aesthetics. Nothing needs to be done today but likely in next 5-15 years tile may require attention closer to five years if pool remains salt pool.
Estimated total: Enzyme/organic matter treatment less than $100 plus algae treatment $100 plus calcium removal less than $200.

Water quality less than ideal: crystal clear but has odor common with high level of total dissolved solids in salt pools. High pH and high alkalinity along with relatively high total chlorine level and relatively low free chlorine level. Cyanuric acid and calcium hardness levels ideal, indicating likely no water loss present at this time, but with odor present recommend enzyme treatment to remove dissolved organic matter; should be done more frequently as pool not exceptionally large and with frequent use. Water quality will likely need those enzyme treatments and probably in the next 1 to 30 days organic matter treatments likely less than $100 but otherwise relatively good condition. No algae present on walls but some hidden behind tile between tile and fiberglass surface, relatively common in salt pools with high total dissolved solids issues. Mitigate by increasing pump run time, balancing chemical levels, and not letting them drop to zero in winter. Recommend another $100 in algae treatment starting with nonmetal algicide. Auto fill running at inspection—could be float trouble, set incorrectly, or potential water loss. Likely less than 10% chance of water loss due to water quality, but retest water quality in 1 to 30 days to confirm. Auto fill could be running to compensate for solar.
Estimated total: Enzyme/organic matter treatment less than $100 plus algae treatment $100.

Skimmer had all parts present except for a skimmer float valve. Main drain line has been disabled and capped. Therefore the float valve is likely not required or recommended due to the set up currently. Recommended is a weighted basket updated for less than $50 otherwise no additional issues seen. Main drain there is no main drain. There’s only a bottom cleaner present for main drain section supplemental main drain suction. Note that this is not a VGBA compliant skimmer and or main drain as a result. Skimmer seal is intact and present.

Bottom cleaner seemingly working but very slow, likely needs minor service less than $50-$100 including new hose segments which should be replaced every five years and are due as unit is around five years old. Recommend adding in-line leaf basket by Pentair for less than $100 so grand total around $205 for all these parts updated.

Auto fill does seem in working condition but likely due for minor service including replacing float head with new more efficient better design for less than $20. Recommend cleaning out auto fill canister with lots of dust and debris at bottom. Canister has auto drain present which is nice and appears bonded for unknown reason (no metal present anywhere). Will likely cost $125 to $250 to do these minor services that are not required immediately but should be done soon.

There are two pool lights, both AO Smith Creo lights generally around $150 per light. Both have condensation inside the lens indicating they are towards the end of their life cycle. They are about five years old and with luck may last another five years but likely closer to 1-2 years remaining before needing update. Cost for these style lights around $150 each times two, or consider updating to higher quality like Pentair or Jandy closer to $500-$600 each times two. Labor and minor programming to install new lights will be around $500 total for the two.

Filter is a Pentair cartridge filter about five years old, which is typically the maximum lifespan for the filter elements inside. If these are the original elements, they are due for replacement. Elements can be purchased online as cheap as around $200 for the set, or OEM style closer to $500. At that time it would be wise to also update the O-ring set, as is typical every five years for salt pools, around $200. The pressure gauge is also due for replacement with a liquid filled gauge at around $50.

No issue seen. Working.

Working without issue. GFCI seen. Low voltage lights present.

Working lights controller.

The salt cell and power center appeared to be functioning / likely not well at this time, but due to the low free chlorine level levels, and overall condition and age - as well as seeing heavy, calcium buildup on the salt cell indicating that it is not being serviced as needed, I would anticipate a new salt cell is due here very soon in the next 1 to 12 months ($500+).

Valves and equipment pad: everything on the equipment pad was working with no leaks present but there are recommended updates that can be performed if desired, not required but very much recommend. Paint and re-label the equipment pad then cover it from UV using a simple $50 mesh from Amazon for around $300 total. Update the solar plumbing valves: two low quality ball valves to higher quality Jandy valves along with adding 2x T fittings that have two hose bibs to allow for draining and winterizing (currently not present) for around $700 including parts and labor. Pool is not equipped with an auxiliary drain other than the one in the auto fill; this can be added for around $400 (T fitting with hose bib, high-quality install roughly $200-400).