Pool Surface
The surface is a plaster surface. It appears to be more than 25 years old. It is likely closer to 30 years old. There is pitting present throughout in several locations. I believe I counted approximately 10 pits, mostly 3 inch chlorine cookie size or smaller on the entry steps, shallow and deep end area and the like and some of the corners of the steps as well. This is indicating that we are likely on the last 5% of the plaster’s life cycle, which typically plaster last up to 30 years. So I would not expect any more than 1 to 3 years of additional life remaining as long as it remains water tight.
The water chemistry results are skewed, making it more difficult to determine water loss status, but likely because the CYA and calcium hardness levels are so high. This is generally an indicator that water loss is not present here.
Some other issues to note are in the south east corner. We are seeing some runner markings that appear to be crack like but likely more related to the surface versus the structure as they appear to be localized and not running out of the pool. The only one running out of the pool appears to be in the north east side of the pool, where there has been some patchwork done to the tile and some lifted concrete around this area, indicating that there may be some pressure points in this area, likely more related to outside the pool than inside the pool, as it does appear to be extending from the tile down into the plaster versus the other way around. Still this should be figured out likely at the next replaster stage to avoid additional issues and which will likely consist of readjusting the coping and or concrete around the north east side of the pool, where the crack on the surface is originating and existing.
Otherwise throughout the rest of the pool, there are scratches, especially on the entry steps and there is heavy, heavy, heavy chlorine wear present throughout but overall there does not appear to be any structure issues occurring at this time other than the one potential in the north east corner which again I feel is likely not structure related, but instead additional outside concrete pressure related or tree foliage that is right next to it.
The plastering, even though may not be required right this moment, will likely be required very soon. I would estimate in the next 12 to 48 months and when that time comes, the cost will range approximately $10,000-$14,000 to replaster this pool with high-quality plaster options versus other low quality options that are lower cost.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Replastering (when needed): $10,000–$14,000

Waterline Tile and Coping / Concrete
Waterline Tile
The waterline tile throughout the pool is in fairly good condition overall for its age, but there are some hollow point sounds that I’m hearing especially quarters in different locations especially near the skimmer. These areas will likely need to be repaired and they will probably cost around $1,500 to re-tile most of the pool if we are finding that most of the tiles are loose up to $2,500. But if this is done at the plaster stage would be the most efficient on cost to be performed. That said this should be done sooner than later, meaning in the next 1 to 24 months preferably which is also about the same timeline as the plaster is due to be plastered due to its current condition.
Coping and Concrete
Next is the coping concrete next to the pool. There are essentially two affected areas. One is on the north side of the pool all the way from the northwest corner to the north east corner where the concrete is lifted and or settled, creating a gap. Then the second affected area is on the east side of the pool, where all of this is likely related to nearby organic matter and or trees, lifting and moving concrete. I would rough estimate the need to re-concrete the entire run from the northwest to the north east of the decking and then some of the east side concrete as well. This will likely cost $5,000 and up, maybe up to $7,500 if including demo. But this would be this should be done at the same time as replacing the skimmer and the auto fill at the same time as this is the best time and the best value to perform these repairs. At that time you might tack on an additional $2,000 to $3,000 to also address the skimmer and the auto fill lifting issue and likely install new skimmers and new auto fill canisters at this time. This is all required while the skimmer is likely the least of the issues. There is obvious issues present inside the skimmer throat where the tile meets the skimmer and previous repairs have been performed but the main issue is in the auto fill canister. That is where most of the effect is taken place. Still, this is all likely required right away and again should be done at the time of plastering to be the most cost-effective.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Waterline tile repair/re-tile: $1,500–$2,500 (most efficient at replaster)
• Coping / concrete repair (north and east sides): $5,000–$7,500 (including demo)
• Additional skimmer + auto fill work at replaster: $2,000–$3,000

Water Quality
The water quality is indicating that the calcium hardness level is ideal, slightly elevated, likely between 400 and 600 ppm. The total chlorine and free chlorine are very very high, likely between 20 to 50 ppm. I would not recommend swimming in this at this time, it is a danger at this level. When the chlorine level is this high it also throws off other chemistry results so my chemistry results are likely 50 to 90% accurate.
The next chemistry results appears to have a high pH, maybe around 7.6 but as low as 7.0, and an alkalinity that is low, likely around 20 to 40. The cyanuric acid also appears to be high. It is between 80 to 120, likely closer to 120. When it is at this level, it is likely recommended that the pool is just simply half drained or completely drained and refilled with freshwater as essentially the water has become saturated with cyanuric acid and making other chemistry balance results less than ideal. Therefore the half drain is minimum required.
The estimated cost to do a half drain is likely $250 to $450 depending on the service provider.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Half drain and refill + water balancing: $250–$450

Skimmer and Main Drain
Skimmer
The skimmer is due to have some parts updated which will consist of the float, the float O-ring and likely a new lid as well. These can all be purchased and installed for less than $200.
Main Drain
The main drain cover is older and cracked creating an injury potential. The new main drain cover is around $80 so around $200 installed. Note though that this main drain is not VGBA compliant and that should be done at the plaster stage. That can be performed for around $500 for a dual drain set up, maybe closer to $1,000 or more. Preferably a channel drain versus which is smooth and does not bulge up which bottom cleaners get held up on. Instead it is flush with the floor of the pool and that might cost closer to $1,000 to install, maybe even $1,500.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Skimmer parts (float, O-ring, lid): <$200
• New main drain cover + install: ~$200
• Channel / dual drain upgrade at replaster: $500–$1,500

Bottom Cleaner
There is an MX bottom cleaner present by Zodiac. It is currently working. Its in-line leaf basket is currently fairly well full, indicating that this cleaner is in working condition, but it is clearly slightly older. If I had to guess, 3 to 5 years old and nearing its expiration. Signs of current issues are I’m hearing air coming through one of the hose segment connection points and I also hear air coming through the in-line leaf basket. The leaf basket looks very sun beaten and worn indicating it is also likely more brittle.
I would estimate that a new hose and a new in-line leaf basket complete which is nearly due is going to be the next things needed and at around $100. On top of that may require some additional attention that we don’t see at this time which we can ballpark between $50-$100, which may include an additional hose or maybe some tracks. Either way I would estimate this between $100-$205 to get it up to ideal working condition for at least the next 1 to 3 years of use.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New hose and in-line leaf basket + additional attention: $100–$205

Special note, though my favorite Bottom cleaner is the pool cleaner four-wheel $500 + Pentair in line leaf basket ($100) for a non-proprietary low cost long life option.

Auto Fill
The auto fill is a float. It’s the Pool Miser. The canister cannot be accessed as the lid is not easily removed, but with a flathead screwdriver we could easily. Still the canister cannot be checked, but what is likely inside is a float that is due to be cleaned and serviced likely for less than $20.
The shut off located at the side of the home is in relatively poor condition and it would be wise to update this in the near future before leaks begin to develop and it would likely cost $125 to $250 to perform that including parts and labor.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Float cleaning and service: <$20
• Shut off valve update (parts and labor): $125–$250

Pool Lights
There are two pool lights installed. They both appear to be older than 5 to 10 years and additionally, they appear to be what most commonly is referred to as spa size lights or 6 inch lights. They appear that both light can lenses have water inside the light lens and therefore should be updated for safety. A new complete light can, which is likely what you’ll have to replace since there’s condensation present already. A new light can like model as this is around $600 and there are two of them so two at $600 plus installation will be around $400 each to pull in the new light and wire them up so $400 times two. Essentially this would likely resolve any pool light issue that we currently have.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New light cans (2x) + install: ~$2,000 ($600 per can + $400 install each)

Filter
The filter is an old dog. It is likely the same age as the pool surface, around 30 years. The filter is an S8M 150 Sta-Rite filter cartridge. It appears to have relatively new or fairly cleaned filter elements installed in it as the pressure is indicating 14 psi when the pump is running at 2800 RPMs. But in general if the elements were brand new and cleaned, it may be as low as five or six psi so it is indicating that these elements are likely nearing due for cleaning. Because this filter is larger it will take more time. It’s around 500 ft² and as a result will be around $150 for a service charge to service and clean. At that time you can determine if the elements are due to be replaced which they likely are just judging by age and overall condition. The new element set is between $550 and $750 and it would be wise to also consider updating the tank O-ring and the O-ring set including a new drain plug assembly and drain plug O-ring along with a new pressure gauge liquid filled at around $50. The O-ring set for this filter would likely cost less than $200 as well. I would recommend all of these to be performed after viewing the condition of the filter element.
Also note that I expect this filter to likely have an additional 3 to 10 years of remaining life if well maintained.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Filter service and cleaning: ~$150
• New filter elements: $550–$750
• Tank O-ring set, drain plug assembly, and liquid-filled pressure gauge: <$250

Filter Pump
The filter pump at first glance appears to be in relatively good working condition without any issues present, but after running the pump for a period of time, it appears that we are seeing water loss at the back right of its return connection. It is in a precarious position and area, making it a little bit difficult to identify exactly where this leak is located. It is in one of three locations. One at the union which is an easy repair to open and service and re-seal likely less than $150 in service and parts. The option two is if it’s the pipe going into the pump leaking which I do not feel is the most likely option. That cost is around to install likely closer to $250 to $450. But the third option is the most likely issue I feel. I put it at above 70% likelihood that the housing itself has split or is worn away and worn thin. If that’s the case then the wet end of this pump will need to be updated and that cost is between $750 to $1,250 installed. You can just buy a whole new pump complete for around $1,100 brand new. Note you can always find cheaper options but that is the most standard like options available. So I will put the cost estimate for this most likely option as being the most greatest option available and just so you know like model pumps is the Pentair 3 1.5 hp or 3 hp option.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Union repair: <$150
• Pipe repair: $250–$450
• Wet end replacement: $750–$1,250
• New complete pump (recommended like model): ~$1,100 + install

Board and Timer
There is a standard automatic, single dial yellow dial timer currently present. It appears to be in working condition as an on off switch for the variable speed pump. The variable speed pump appears to be connected to a 15 amp breaker which is acceptable but could be more ideal if upgraded to a GFCI variable speed breaker by Siemens, which is a 20 amp and would likely be more appropriate here. That cost for that part would be around $120.
Additionally, the light GFCI plug outlet breaker is due to be updated for safety at around $50 and it might be wise to also add an additional GFCI breaker for the pool light as well instead of having the pool lights share the same breaker as the variable speed pump. I believe the cost for that additional breaker would be around $50 GFCI for the pool light and an electrician may charge around $300 to install all of those parts as well.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Siemens 20 amp GFCI variable speed breaker: ~$120
• GFCI breakers for light plug and pool light: ~$100
• Electrician labor: ~$300

Working solar timer without any errors.

Valving
The valving on the equipment pad here is all original. There does not appear to be any significant updates except for possibly a single check valve. Still, I would recommend servicing the entire equipment pad at the very minimum with new O-rings and new internal parts, which may end up costing around $500 in parts. If you were to pay someone to do this add on another $500 to $750 in labor as it will take several hours to do.
You may also consider which is likely the best option in my opinion is to just simply cut everything out for the most part plumbing wise and update new and fresh since everything is likely around 30 years. If you do this, the cost may be comparable to service and parts at around $1,250 up to $1,850 depending on extra add-ons and it would also include repainting and re-labeling this equipment pad and covering it from UV using UV mesh from Amazon for around $50 or less.
But some obvious issues are on the suction side. The pressure gauge that has failed. The three-way valves are all hard to turn in indicating high chlorine usage and overall just a large amount of sun exposure wearing through the paint indicating it is very overdue for service.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Minimum service (O-rings and internal parts + labor): $1,000–$1,250
• Full plumbing replacement + repaint, re-label, UV mesh: $1,250–$1,850