Pool Surface
The surface is relatively new to me. It looks between 12 to 48 months old, likely closer to 12, and in relatively good condition. I did not see any noticeable blemishes or issues. The only issue I am noticing is the organic matter growing and potentially some wear or mottling present in the corners or edges in some locations. Otherwise, this plaster is in good shape for its age and if well maintained should last a long time.
Cost summary (this section only)
• No immediate costs required

Tile
The waterline tile all appears to be in good condition. No blemishes seen.
The only issues that I have any concern about are on the middle skimmer, the east/south east skimmer if you will, and the north east skimmer. The middle skimmer here seems to have the most wear and hollow sounding spots in the skimmer throat where the tile edge meets the throat. The northeast skimmer has similar concepts. Both of these will likely need to be re-mortared or given attention soon. I wouldn’t estimate worst case $500 each skimmer in service, parts and labor × 2.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Skimmer throat mortar repair (middle and northeast): ~$1,000 ($500 each)

Water Quality
The water quality is indicating that there is organic matter present throughout, which is seen throughout the pool. A yellow mustard algae is present throughout, even though there is chlorine present — relatively low free chlorine and normal high total chlorine. The cyanuric acid is also slightly elevated. The calcium hardness is elevated, indicating this is likely old water or balanced water at time of replastering.
We need to lower the alkalinity and pH ASAP. We need to increase the chlorine and we need to do water treatments to eliminate the organic matter growing, which will include phosphates, enzymes and etc. treatments. I would estimate $375 is a likely cost to get a full treatment set laid out, but it may require a second one due to the mass amounts of organic matter present around the pool.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Full water treatments (alkalinity/pH adjustment, chlorine increase, phosphates, enzymes, etc.): ~$375 (possible second treatment needed)

Main Drain
The main drain on the pool is located in the deep end. There appears to only be one and it does appear to be an updated channel drain. The channel drain appears to be likely new in the past 12 to 48 months approximately and therefore does not need to be updated at this time.
Cost summary (this section only)
• No costs required at this time

Skimmer
There are three skimmers. It appears the middle one is the strongest, and then the other two are likely branched off in some capacity from there. It does appear that potentially the west and south east most skimmer are newer while the northeast one is older. Still I would put all of these skimmers likely over 30 years old, maybe over 35 is my estimate and at the next replaster stage should be updated for longevity and efficiency.
As it stands right now the north west most skimmer has the best mortar and tile. All the southeast and the northeast both have potential issues developing due to excess wear, maybe excess flow. This will be discussed in the tile section.
What is due to be updated now as far as internal parts on the skimmers are the floats, float O-rings, ideally weighted baskets on all three and it does appear that they need new updated weir doors and lids on all three. That appears to be a Hayward skimmer using standard size floats. I would estimate all of those parts installed would likely run around $600-$700 for the higher-quality items installed total cost for all 3 skimmers updated.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Internal skimmer parts update (floats, O-rings, weighted baskets, weir doors, lids) for all three: $600–$700
• Full skimmer replacement at next replaster: recommended (1500+x3).

Bottom Cleaner
The bottom cleaner is in overall poor condition. It’s in my opinion abused mostly because it is ran every time the pump is run. Because of the size of this pool this pump should likely run 8 to 12 hours a day or if in low speed mode, it may be beneficial to run 24 hours a day all summer long as that would likely be again the lowest cost on energy and chemicals as this would always keep water and chemical moving, making it harder for organic matter to grow. If ran at medium speed or low would likely only cost $5 to $10 in electricity therefore making it the most efficient overall.
Still this pool does need a bottom cleaner that runs around that’s working well. Currently this cleaner has several issues I will outline that should be updated if you’re trying to prolong its life, but I still feel that it would be beneficial to just simply scrap this unit and update to brand new after the end of the swim season just due to the condition of this cleaner overall.
The items that are gonna need to be updated on it are a new tail, new tires likely as there is unusual buildup on it, the hose from the wall to the unit. Overall the cost to update this cleaner unit with updated parts is gonna be less than $200 and would likely get it another 1 to 2 years of life additional in its current state hopefully longer but running it at a lower speed for the majority of its remaining life will help prolong its life hopefully to another five or 10 years. But a new unit sometimes as low as $450 on Amazon would likely be the best option in the next one to 24 months in this current cleaner’s current condition.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update parts (tail, tires, hose): <$200
• New bottom cleaner unit: ~$450 (recommended in 1–24 months)

Auto Fill
The auto fill is a manual fill. It’s located on the side of the house. It does appear to have been updated in the past several years. It is poor quality with blue glue and soft pipe. This can easily be updated to a professional standard for likely $250 - $450 installed. This will give us likely a new fill and a new backflow and new connections and piping that are rated likely for 50 years or more.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update manual fill to professional standard (new fill, backflow, connections, piping): $250–$450

Pool Light
There are what appear to be three separate pool lights: one on the west end shallow end wall, one on the north wall above the diving board, and one on the east wall near the skimmer. It does appear that all three lights have been somehow retrofitted into an existing older light can. This is done with all three. I would hope for safety that there is no wiring connected from the old light can to anything as it is now exposed to the water, but this was likely all done in an era before plastics or even Amazon was readily available.
Therefore, the quickest solution here and easiest is to just simply buy the correct sized light. These are all what appear to be standard 6 inch lights. I do not believe the lights are working at this time as when I do turn on power to them I am not able to get them to turn on. Still the high-quality way to do this is to replace them all with ideally high-quality 12 V Pentair spa size lights or commonly referred to as 6 inch spotlights. Each light likely for the newest version the architectural series by Pentair likely runs $900-$1,200 per light. There are three of them. That is potentially the cost plus installation. Installation is around $400 on each light as you have to pull in a new wire to this location, but there are much cheaper ways to do it if cost is a concern. That is only what I just recommended is for the highest quality A+ option available now that will likely last 30 years, but there are low cost items that might last 1 to 5 years on Amazon that can do this for around $200-$300 per light plus installation of again $400 per light if you paid someone to do it.
On top of that there does appear to be some extra costs going to be associated with re-stabilizing these like junction boxes or making them water tight again. Both junction boxes have cracked conduits and should be updated for safety, possibly even some concrete potentially. I do like the faux rocks over the top of them. This will help with injuries from hitting these as they are relatively stable into the ground and cannot be moved and should not be moved, but it is potential that they do need some attention as I mentioned and that will likely cost around $500 or less to have an electrician do all of the things mentioned i.e. reinforcing with concrete. Eunice may even be up to $1,000 total for the two junction boxes to be reinforced and resecured.
Cost summary (this section only)
• High-quality Pentair architectural 6” LED lights (3x) + install: $3,900–$4,800
• Low-cost Amazon lights (3x) + install: $1,800–$2,100
• Junction box / conduit reinforcement: $500–$1,000

Filter
The filter is clearly at least 10 years old, probably 5 to 10 years old. It appears to be saturated around its tank O-ring. Additionally, the pressure on the filter is 17 psi when running the pump at 3450 RPMs, generally indicating that the filters may be slightly dirty and due for standard quarterly service, which may run around $150 to pay someone to service this filter which will include opening the filter, servicing the tank O-ring that is clearly having some leaking issue and beyond.
Note though that this tank being slightly older may have an issue with the plastic housing itself, causing this saturation leak issue and not just the O-ring. This particular filter often takes a specialty O-ring that is around $100 as well. That might be likely here but in any case opening and servicing this will tell us more. As it stands right now I would expect to see service needed, a new tank O-ring, likely new filter elements and I’ll just opt to have a new filter pressure gauge liquid filled for $50. Otherwise there does not appear to be any additional leaks at this time.
Note also that the filter elements should be replaced every 2 to 5 years and if this has not been done in the past 2 to 5 years recommend updating the elements. The element set is likely around $300-$500 depending on quality.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Quarterly service (including tank O-ring): ~$150
• Specialty tank O-ring: ~$100
• New liquid-filled pressure gauge: ~$50
• New filter elements: $300–$500

Filter Pump
The filter pump is working. It seems in relatively good condition. Overall the only issue visibly is the bonding wire is not secured which for less than $100 can be resecured very easily.
But the main issue at this pump is when you notice it most when you go to turn off the pump you do hear the bearings likely inside the motor windings grinding slightly. You also hear it when you start up. This is an early sign of eventual issue. This if left prolonged will cause the motor to heat up and the excess heat will destroy the attached drive and functionality.
Therefore, the wise thing to do is to service this now which may run $450-$750 if it is found to be a motor bearing, etc., internal part versus a replacement on this pump is around $2000 for a like model pump wholesale cost. Therefore service of $450 to $750 is likely best now versus a higher cost likely later and who knows it may be something relatively simple that may be very inexpensive still needs attention before the problem gets worse. Sometimes it’s something as easy as the motor cover on the fan being too close or broken.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Bonding wire resecure: <$100
• Motor service (bearings etc.): $450–$750
• Full pump replacement (if needed): ~$2,000
Ready for the next section.

Board and Timer
The board and timer, which are located on the outside of the pool equipment area in the elements, has some unistrut that appears to potentially be mounted into concrete. Two pieces a little wobbly, but relatively secure. The box is likely an original T3040R timer. It is in fair condition that shows some signs of overall wear for being in the elements, but appears to be bypassed essentially at this time for just a simple auto switch and a junction box with breakers.
The only complaint I have at this time is to update the breakers to GFCI similar to the pool light for the variable speed pump and then also update this pool light GFCI for safety due to its age. To me it appears to be over five years or more. Still recommend updating it. It is less than $50. Variable speed breaker is about $100. I recommend one more GFCI for the plug, maybe that’s around $50, and an electrician might charge you around $300 to install all that and button up a few items like potentially removing these timer switches and instead installing light switches for on off power.
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI breaker updates (variable speed, pool light, plug): ~$200+ (parts)
• Electrician labor: ~$300

Valves
There are three valves installed where there should be four. Additionally, these are older valves. These are not ideal for what we have here and should be swapped out for more ideal screw AK serviceable valves. These are only inch and a half in size and there should be three on the suction side at least or if desiring can be simplified some but this should be updated. Each valve updated might cost around $300 installed so there’s $300 × 3.
Then on the return side that valve is relatively new and in working condition no major issues there. The only thing I would do different on the plumbing is I would likely if possible increase plumbing size on the entire pad up to directly the part that goes underground or at least close to it. That may provide a bump in efficiency only slightly likely one to 5%, but still it is something not required at this time but if you’re already doing the valve work, maybe be beneficial, better flow rates and likely less wear and tear on equipment attached. They’re also appears to be a 2 inch return which is very nice.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update three valves: ~$900 ($300 each installed)
• Increase plumbing size (if doing valve work): $1200 (optional)