Pool Surface
The surface while it appears to be in relatively fair condition. There are a lot of blemishes present specifically on the west side wall middle. Initially I thought these two or three black marks were cracks, but instead upon very close inspection they appeared to just be a surface scuffing of some kind. I am unsure as to how this happened or why it is still present and not just simply removed via minor service but again it does appear to just simply be a surface scratch and or marking that I feel should be able to be removed.
There are other issues like rust stains present, especially seen in the deep end and near the deep end on the west side. These also appear to likely just be surface stains and not rebar related but still recommend service to remove these to confirm if any of them are rebar. To remove them expect the cost of around $400 or so.
The surface appears to also likely be a little bit more abrasive on the west side and there is organic matter being built up, especially on the west side in the shaded areas. Therefore extra attention will need to be performed on these areas.
Last there is a lot of sediment buildup in the step entry on the shallow end of the pool. This could likely be resolved with proper flow distribution in this area, potentially and or increasing the flow by servicing the filter.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Rust stain removal and testing: ~$400
• No other immediate costs required for the surface itself

Waterline Tile
The waterline tile appears to be in ideal condition. Overall no major issues seen.
Raised Wall
The raised wall appears to be in fair to good condition overall. There are some minor gaps seen, likely from the finishing crew not filling it in with extra mortar like they did in other places, but no major issues seen. They may require attention in the next 5 to 20 years from now as these become more and more loose with water exposure from the waterfall. There’s barely any calcium present, which is mostly just seen on the south side of the pool. If desiring to remove it may run less than $400.
Skimmer Connection
The connection into the skimmer where the tile meets the skimmer is difficult to see because the water level is so high, but what can be seen is a good connection and the skimmer itself does not appear to have any movement around it indicating there may be an issue present.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Calcium removal (south side, if desired): <$400
• Future raised wall mortar attention: not immediate (5–20 years)
• No other immediate costs required

Water Quality
The water quality in this pool is showing that the calcium hardness level is slightly elevated at around 650. The chlorine is very elevated, 10 to 20 ppm possibly more. Its pH and alkalinity are also raised and its cyanuric acid level is to the maximum allowable at around 120. Unfortunately it is a potential that a portion of this pool water will need to be drained, likely 1/3 or 1/2, to properly rebalance this cyanuric acid level. That may run $100-$300 depending on service.
Otherwise in the pool I don’t really see too many examples of algae being present but I do see history of previous buildup around the pool lights at the top, indicating that there is likely organic matter present that the high chlorine level may be masking. Additionally, on the west side of the pool wall does appear that there may be remnant of previous algae presence as there does appear to be a brown tint or potential coating that may be indicative of previous algae that hasn’t been brushed off.
I would estimate algae treatments will likely run $200 to $300 or less depending on options.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Partial drain to reduce CYA: $100–$300
• Algae treatments: $200–$300+

Main Drains
There are two main drain covers located in the deep end. They are older. They are the larger 10 inch version. They likely are due to be updated this year for safety at around the cost of around $100 and actually $120 each installed. The covers themselves are around $80.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update two main drain covers: ~$240 ($120 each installed)

Skimmer
The skimmer overall appears to be in good condition. The only items that I would recommend updating are the float, O-ring, possibly the float as well, and a new weighted basket installed for less than $200.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Float, O-ring, and weighted basket update: <$200

Bottom Cleaner
The bottom cleaner back up valve appears not to be functioning correctly. Additionally, the bag on the bottom cleaner is not fully inflating. This may all stem from a booster pump that is beginning to fail, but either way the hose also looks older and original. Tail is in fair shape and will likely need to be updated soon.
It is likely we had a new hose complete from wall return wall adapter to unit will be recommended, all for less than $305.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New hose complete (wall adapter to unit) + tail update: <$305

Working. Recommend minor can clean out ($20)

Pool Lights
There are two pool lights installed. They appear to be Pentair LED lights. They are of high quality and I would estimate these lights may be less than three years old. If they are, it should be covered under warranty.
As right now I do see condensation present inside the light lens, and if that’s the case, that means that the light seal has ruptured and now these lights are becoming a safety hazard. They appear to be 120 V lights therefore high voltage and should be addressed ASAP for safety.
If these lights are not covered under warranty the cost of this light is around $1,200 for a Pentair color 12 V LED architectural light and there’s two of them. It would likely run around $400 to install each light. So $1,200 × 2 + $400 + $400. It does appear both lights are less than 25 feet from their junction box which is located under a rock decorative piling to the east of the pool, less than 10 feet.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Warranty replacement: $0 (if less than 3 years old)
• New Pentair architectural LED lights + install (both): ~$3,200 (if not under warranty)

Filter
The filter is very very dirty. I have it running at approximately 2800 RPMs and the pressure is nearly 30 psi, possibly more. Hard to tell because the gauge has expired. Recommend service to this filter starting at around $150 which would also include a new pressure gauge at around $50, liquid filled.
It is very very likely that the elements have expired and are due to be updated at around $300 for a new set up to $400 for OEM version. I do not see any leaks, but due to its age of around 7-8 years old, the tank O-ring, union O-rings, drain plug O-ring and likely pressure assembly all costing less than $200 is likely all due to be updated very soon.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Filter service: ~$150
• New liquid-filled pressure gauge: ~$50
• Filter elements replacement: $300–$400
• O-rings and related parts: <$200

Filter Pump
The filter pump appears to likely just have a faulty lid or that could have easily been replaced for less than $20 on Amazon, but instead it appears the rubber mallet has been used several times on this lid to attempt to reseal it when all it really needed was a new lid O-ring which is standard every 1 to 2 years and or simply keeping the O-ring lubricated using pool lube which is less than $10 on Amazon as well.
I do see a lid opening of some kind next to the pump, but it is much too small for this application. This is an IntelliFlo pump and I would assume the lid O-ring is due to be updated as it is currently leaking from where it appears to be the lid O-ring out the top. Worst case the lid itself may be cracked and that may be causing the leak and if that’s the case, add an additional $75.
Otherwise this pump is overall in fair condition. It has been fairly sun exposed. It appears to be approximately eight years old and no major issues seen on the pump otherwise but the lid moisture is saturating below the entire pump, making additional issues if they are present difficult to assess or diagnose. Therefore recommend repair to the complete O-ring and then reassessing. Additionally at the seal plate there appears to be some previous examples of moisture seen, and if that’s the case, which may be required, a new shaft seal and seal plate O-ring in some regard. Only way to really find out is to run this over prolonged period of time and/or after the lid O-ring is resealed. If that does require repair to the shaft seal or seal plate, the parts cost or less than $50 but the time to open it and get to it and address it is 1 to 2 hours therefore a $450 service would likely include the parts and labor.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Lid O-ring + lube: <$20–$50
• Lid replacement (if cracked): ~$75
• Full lid O-ring repair and reassessment: included above
• Shaft seal / seal plate repair service (if needed): ~$450 (parts + labor)

Booster Pump
The booster pump powers the bottom cleaner. It does appear that the booster pump itself is near the very end of its life cycle with extreme vibration present, likely to the point where a fire may be inevitable if left unattended, especially during the heat of the summer.
A new booster pump is relatively inexpensive at around $200 for a low cost option off Amazon all the way up to a like model being a Pentair Boost Right or the new Hydro Boost is the new version of that and that pump is right around $650 wholesale. Installation on that you’ll pay likely around $600-$800 depending on options for hard plumbing and reconnection for a grand total if I believe around $1,300 or more after tax for a like version.
Further note that this pump is in very poor physical condition. It has a leak on its return that has been there for quite some time and the motor is nearly expired. It would be likely the most beneficial to just do a complete booster replacement as I mentioned previously versus any repair on this one.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Low cost booster pump replacement + install: ~$800–$1,000
• Like model (Pentair Hydro Boost) + install (hard plumbing): ~$1,300+

Current plumbing is leaking.

Equipment Panel
The equipment panel is a fair working near new panel. It does have a wireless remote antenna, so there is likely a wireless remote present somewhere. This panel controls the pool lights on one function, the booster pump, the waterfall actuator, and the filter pump scheduling and function.
The only issue that I can complain about is the fact that there is condensation present inside the light lens, which generally should be tripping the breaker. It is equipped with a GFCI breaker and because it is such a low-cost item at around $20-$30 I would recommend updating that at the same time as the new lights just for an extra layer of safety. An electrician or handyman would likely do that all for less than $200. At that same time you do have the option to update the throw breaker to a GFCI as well for likely less than $50 extra.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update GFCI breaker for lights + optional throw breaker: <$200 (with new lights)
• Extra GFCI breaker: ~$50

Equipment Pad
The equipment pad is heavily sun exposed and due to be repainted and re-labeled and then covered from UV, all for less than $300.
Note that there are three two-way valves, high-quality Pentair, that may be due to be updated with internal valve guts and or O-rings. Valve guts may run around $100 each. O-rings only may run less than $10 each plus service maybe around $200 total.
Additionally there is a low quality ball valve on the return of the booster pump. This may benefit to upgrade to a high-quality Pentair similar to the one right below it at around $200-$300 installed.
This should all be done right away in my opinion as we are already seeing leaks present in other locations and this is a sign of likely high chlorine for prolonged periods of time.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Repaint, re-label, and UV mesh cover: <$300
• Three two-way valve guts / O-rings + service: ~$200
• Upgrade low quality ball valve: $200–$300