Pool Surface
The surface overall is in fair condition, certainly approaching poor in the next 1 to 5 years. We do see pits present throughout, especially on the walls and shallow end steps. We are likely on the last 25% of our life cycle, which is typically 20 to 30 years. Currently we are right around 16 years.
It does not appear any of these issues can be repaired at this time except for some of the mottling present, especially seen on the bottom. This can likely be removed with either brushing and or chemical services at around $200, but again it would likely only improve about 5 to 10% of the surface which may not be worthwhile.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Mottling removal (brushing/chemical service): ~$200 (optional, limited improvement)

Shear Descents
There are two shear descents. Both appear to be in normal working condition. They are flush mounted to the face of the tile wall. The raised tile wall is raised approximately 18 inches on the backside of the waterfalls.
Though I am seeing moisture present on the backside. This could be due to several issues, but it is likely that this has been an ongoing issue for some time as I do see notable evidence of water loss on the backside. It does not seem substantial, but it is noticeable.
The moisture may require repair if desiring to use the waterfalls for prolonged periods of time. A repair like this might run $1,000 to $2,000 depending on the issue, which would include opening up the stone and mortar and examining further as to the cause. This could just be a simple waterproofing issue on the face or a cracked or broken pipe in the wall.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Shear descent / waterfall backside moisture repair: $1,000–$2,000

Waterline Tile
The waterline tile all appears to be original but in relatively good condition, even inside the skimmer throat. It looks like it’s in pretty fair shape.
I would just do a minor updating of the mortar in the next 1 to 10 years in between the skimmer and the tile for less than $100, but otherwise the waterline tile is good.
The only issue I see is on top of the waterline tile in between the concrete. Some of the water stop that had been installed, merely for decoration, is starting to come off. It is likely due to just simply be removed at around $100. Even if that is removed, it does appear to be virtually ideal and identical underneath that water stop. Not even a gap forming. It does not appear where the gap was before. We could fill it in with mastic, so I would just simply remove the water stop in areas where it’s coming off.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Minor mortar update between skimmer and tile: <$100
• Remove water stop where coming off: ~$100

Water Quality
The water quality is next. It will be skewed as far as accuracy due to high levels of chlorine being present, but we are seeing ideal levels of calcium hardness and CYA, indicating that it is not likely that water loss is present.
But the chlorine level is very very high and this is likely masking algae that is likely present and will require between $200 to $300 in water treatments to remove. Additionally, it is likely that the pH will need to be lowered slightly at around $20. Recommend recheck water chemistry 1 to 30 days to confirm water loss status.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Water treatments for algae: $200–$300
• pH adjustment: ~$20

Main Drains
There are four main drain covers. They are all due to be updated due to age and condition. A new cover is around $50 in parts plus around $50 in labor to install, so four of them here should be updated at around $100 each installed.
Note that at the next replaster stage you would likely want to update these to channel style drains if possible, which may run $1,000 to $2,000 as an extra. But to update these to new covers that cost is around $400 as I mentioned.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update four main drain covers: ~$400
• Channel style drains at replaster (optional): $1,000–$2,000 extra

Skimmer
The skimmer appears to be an original skimmer, even though there is some concrete work done behind the pool between the pool equipment and the skimmer, generally likely due to a skimmer repair being present. But it does not appear to be so, hard to say either way.
The skimmer is from 2010 and does not appear to have any significant damage at this time other than just standard buildup being present and rust being present from likely skimmer baskets that had a metal piece.
Either way, recommend updating the float, float O-ring, and a weighted basket along with a new lid. All for less than $300 installed to bring the skimmer back to ideal working condition.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Skimmer component updates (float, O-ring, weighted basket, lid): <$300

Pool Returns
I counted three returns in the pool. It would likely be wise to update those to variable speed return heads. This may help some at around $100 each installed. The parts cost around $50 each. There are three of them, so around $300.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update three variable speed return heads: ~$300

Bottom Cleaner
The bottom cleaner isn’t very old, likely 1 to 3 years old. It does appear that the tires are due to be updated, likely the tail, and some service to the unit. It keeps wanting to get stuck, but it is overall functioning well. Maybe the wall adapter needs to be adjusted to allow excess pressure to run out. Cost to bring this unit back to good condition: $105–$205.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Tires, tail, and service (including possible wall adapter adjustment): $105–$205

Auto Fill
The auto fill is likely not working (level is very low). I could not access inside — the lid is essentially sealed, it’s so tight.
I would recommend updating the float inside of here, which is likely original, the lid, and for less than $125 to $250 to do that, including parts and labor. Note the shut off valve is new.

Cost summary (this section only)
• Auto fill float and lid update (parts and labor): $125–$250

Pool Light
The pool light obviously has condensation present inside the light lens and is due to be updated on the south light. It appears to have the same issue on the north light. Both are standard incandescent size 10 inch lights. Recommend updates. Likely a new incandescent light can complete will be around $300 (like light is likely $700) up to $1,200 depending on options and installation will be around $400 each light.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New light can + install per light: $700–$1,600 (depending on options)
• Both lights: $1,400–$3,200 total

Filter
The filter is a Sta-Rite S7M 120. It appears that the filter elements inside the filter likely have been recently updated as the pressure when running at high speed is around 5 to 10 psi. The psi is difficult to determine exactly because the pressure gauge is bad. When it first starts it is at 5 psi and then when it gets going it’s around 12 or 13 psi. Therefore the accurate pressure is likely around 7 psi.
Still, a new liquid filled pressure gauge is around $50 installed. I do see some signs of water loss that may be present around the tank O-ring. That tank O-ring is around $50 and it may cost around $150 in service to get these items fully installed.
Note that this filter is older. It is getting towards the end of its life cycle with fiberglass starting to expose itself. A new like filter may run $800 up to $2,800 depending on size when you upgrade to new, plus someone to install it at around $800.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New liquid-filled pressure gauge: ~$50
• Tank O-ring + service: ~$150–$200
• New filter + install (when needed): $1,600–$3,600 (depending on size)

Filter Pump
The filter pump is like new. It is approximately 1 1/2 years old with a sticker on it from 8/14/2024. Note that these pumps have a three-year warranty typically.
Right now this pump, even though it is brand new, does sound as if there is some grinding occurring, which is often caused by running dry for prolonged periods of time. Still, I don’t know if any warranty station will do any service work on this just by audible issues, but I would classify this as a 25% noticeable bearings grinding issue. This will cascade into an overheating pump and eventual failure.
Contacting Pentair and confirming with their warranty department — if this can be covered, I would do it sooner than later in case it is a one year warranty only, as it is only one pump that got recently replaced and updated.
Cost summary (this section only)
• No immediate out-of-pocket cost (warranty claim recommended)

Booster Pump
The booster pump is a Pentair three-quarter horsepower in seemingly working condition. However it does appear to have a pretty bad leak. This pump is from 2018 so it is out of warranty.
It does appear to have a pretty bad leak likely on the shaft seal, indicating that it is going to be due for service that will cost more than the pump is worth most likely. The cost of a new pump like this is around $300-$500 depending on which model you would get, but it is likely that that may be the most cost-effective option unless you do the work yourself.
Still, cost for a new booster pump as I mentioned plus installation will be around $650, especially if doing hard plumbing versus the current soft hoses that is present, which is my recommendation to do hard plumbing.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New booster pump (~$500) + install (with hard plumbing recommended): ~$650+

Waterfall Pump
The waterfall pump is definitely original. It is likely 15 years or older and it is due for some minor service to the pump basket area, which may include a new pump basket, lid O-ring and new updated drain plug and vacuum and/or plugs. All this for less than $200 would help prolong its life.
Its vibration is at around a two out of four indicating the motor is experiencing some additional stress, but nothing substantial at this time enough to warrant an update or replacement.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Minor service (new basket, lid O-ring, drain plug, vacuum/plugs): <$200

Board and Timer
The board and timer are in relatively good condition overall. Some modifications I’m going to recommend making and note that the safety modifications I’m recommending are optional but recommended.
The first one for safety is the breakers are updated to GFCI. It does not appear that the variable speed pump is on a Siemens variable speed breaker and the pool light does not appear to be on a GFCI breaker, but note that it should be for safety.
Additionally, the switch for the waterfall pump appears to be stuck or not functioning correctly. When I first turned on the switch to the waterfall pump it would not let me turn it back off and every time I press the button, it does a triple click, indicating that there is a faulty issue with the switch requiring me to run and not being able to shut it off. Therefore, this switch should likely be updated as well for less than $100.
Overall those appear to be the only major issues. Minor ones would be resealing the conduit going into the subpanel underneath the subpanel, probably less than $100. Again the breaker updating would likely run around $300. An electrician is probably gonna charge around $350 to do all this. If not, maybe a little bit more. Last, just a simple gray spray paint over the top of these metal boxes will help prolong its life and avoid rust damage which is already starting to begin.
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI breaker updates + electrician: ~$650
• Waterfall pump switch update: <$100
• Conduit resealing: <$100
• Gray spray paint for metal boxes: minimal cost (50)

Valves and Fittings
The equipment pad is not covered from the sun using UV mesh. This equipment pad appears to be in the sun likely from 1 PM until 3 PM, often the hottest time of the day. It would be wise to repaint and re-label it around $300 and then cover with UV mesh for around $50. Otherwise no additional issues seen.
Do note though that there are some conduit on the wall that should be re-fixed. Those screws that are pulled out of the wall and clamps that are broken. Even though this could have gone in the board and timer section, I’m putting it here at around $300 or less in parts and labor to do.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Repaint and re-label equipment pad: ~$300
• UV mesh cover: ~$50
• Conduit repair (screws and clamps): ~$300 or less