Pool Surface
The plaster surface is noticeably worn and appears to be 15–25 years old or older. There is pitting, especially on the steps, along with scattered pits (a handful to two handfuls) across the pool bottom. Many scratches and blemishes make it difficult to identify cracks, but there is a potential surface crack on the southwest/northwest step area running about 16 inches or more into the step itself. Delaminating cracks are also visible on the steps, indicating the surface is old and brittle.
Rust stains are present in the middle end — they appear uniform and are unlikely to be rebar-related (only about a 10% chance). At least five (or more) 3-inch chlorine cookie stains are visible.
Overall, the surface is in damaged condition. I am surprised by the water chemistry results, which suggest no significant water loss at this time. The surface may have another 1–10 years of life remaining (likely closer to 3–5 years), but patching the pits would not be worth the time or money given how close the entire surface is to needing replacement.
Resurfacing a pool of this size would cost around $8,000 to $12,000 depending on options.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Full resurfacing: $8,000–$12,000

Waterline Tile
The waterline tile is all present and in good condition with no major gaps in the grout or mortar. The older tile (likely over 20 years old) was installed well overall.
The only areas of concern are between the waterline tile and the concrete, especially on the north side for at least 15 linear feet. Concrete has moved slightly, creating a gap that may need to be filled.
There is also a section of concrete that has become unbalanced and out of alignment, creating a trip hazard. It can be ground and filled, or potentially removed and replaced (the best option due to the amount of movement and lifting). Grinding, leveling, and filling with mastic for this front area might cost $2,000–$4,000.
Calcium buildup on the tile is mostly on the west and northwest sides. It does not need to be removed but can be for around $650.
The skimmer throat, skimmer throat tile, and skimmer connection are all in surprisingly good condition. Still, I would update the skimmer-to-tile connection soon as it looks worn and may become an issue in the next 1–10 years. This would likely cost less than $100–$200 if done with any other concrete or tile work.
Cost summary (this section only)
• North side gap filling and concrete leveling/mastic work: $2,000–$4,000
• Calcium removal (if desired): ~$650
• Skimmer-to-tile connection update: <$100–$200

Water Chemistry
Water chemistry indicates a high bather load in this relatively shallow pool. Calcium hardness is substantial/slightly elevated and CYA levels are high, suggesting the water is older.
No significant leak appears present at this time, but retest in 1–30 days to confirm. The water seems potentially stale with high TDS, making maintenance harder and algae growth easier.
A very light coating of leopard spots (algae) is visible everywhere, especially in shaded areas.
Consider a half drain or more to refresh the water (~$350+) at minimum / but a light acid wash is also recommended due to the older plaster and organic matter; a heavy acid wash risks damage and is not advised.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Half drain (or more): ~$350+
• Light acid wash: ~$850

Main Drains and Skimmer
There are two main drain covers. One is missing. The main drain setup appears to be VGBA compliant, which is good, but the missing cover should be addressed.
It would be wise to update both covers, as the remaining one is likely older than 3–5 years. Total cost with labor: $100–$200 (or another $100 if the pool is full of water). This is easiest if the pool is empty.
The skimmer itself is working with full flow. It is missing its weir door. I would also recommend updating the float, float O-ring, and weighted basket. All of these can be installed for less than $500.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Update both main drain covers: $100–$200 (plus ~$100 if pool is full)
• Skimmer components (weir door, float, O-ring, weighted basket): <$500

Bottom Cleaner
The bottom cleaner is a very low-cost, low-quality unit. I am actually 100% unsure how it even functions other than being a very simple, almost hand-driven device.
A far superior option is the Pool Cleaner 4-Wheel, usually around $500. Adding an in-line leaf basket (Pentair or Rainbow) would cost about $100 more.
Those two items installed would make a night-and-day difference. The current cleaner is not a viable option for this pool.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Pool Cleaner 4-Wheel + in-line leaf basket: ~$600

Pool Light
The pool light is a fancy fiber optic tower illuminator broadcasting over fiber optic cable (approximately 20 feet or less).
This is my favorite concept — I have the same setup on my own pool and like it a lot.
Unfortunately, we are currently in between it being obsolete and eventually being reused in the future.
Options to update:
• Remove the fiber optic cable and install a simple LED illuminator connected to a power supply: ~$300 for a high-quality LED light, ~$500 for the power center and controller, plus ~$400 for installation (retrofit).
• Alternatively, replace the high-energy lightbulb with high-lumen LED light mirrors and reformat the current setup. This would likely require a specialized “mad scientist” type personality (such as myself in the winter when I have more time) or someone of that caliber, which I can refer and recommend.
Cost summary (this section only)
• LED illuminator + power center/controller + installation (retrofit): ~$1,200
• Specialized bulb/mirror retrofit: cost not estimated (requires specialized work)

Filter
The filter is older but the appropriate size for this pool.
Water clarity is reduced by about 20%, indicating the filter elements are likely due for service or attention. Spiderwebs on the unit suggest it hasn’t been cleaned in at least a month (typically cleaned every three months depending on use).
The fiberglass is heavily sun-damaged and wearing through, so it should at least be painted for longevity (~$20 with spray paint). The pressure gauge is likely inaccurate due to its age — a new liquid-filled gauge would cost around $50.
When opened, we may discover the need for a new filter element set ($300–$450 depending on OEM or low-cost Amazon), plus possible manifolds or other parts including tank O-rings ($300 if needed).
Because of its age and condition, I recommend servicing these items if they haven’t been done in the past 1–5 years.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Filter service (elements, O-rings, manifolds, etc.): ~$300–$750
• Spray paint for fiberglass shell: ~$20
• New liquid-filled pressure gauge: ~$50

Filter Pump
The filter pump is in relatively good condition for its age, likely 3–5 years old.
The motor shows some concerns: it vibrates noticeably (level 1–2 out of 4) and has a slight grinding sound. I would expect the motor to last another 1–5 years before needing replacement.
Replacement cost for the motor: $300–$500 + ~$400 for installation.
Right now, it needs a new conduit and minor service to the pump lid O-ring. These can be done for less than $100–$200 including service and labor.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New conduit + lid O-ring service: $100–$200
• Motor replacement + install (when needed): $700–$900

Board and Timer
The board and timer panel is in good shape overall and mounted securely. There are some signs of rust, but nothing substantial inside the panel is visible.
Update the breakers to GFCI, including the existing spa GFCI breaker (which has been tripped and was hard to reset), a new one for the variable speed pump, and the light breaker. Parts alone are around $300–$400. Electrician labor is likely $500 or more to complete the work.
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI breaker updates + electrician (parts and labor): $800–$1,000+
I did not include the exposed conduits, unusual pipes in the grass, or off-kilter receptacle box in the quote, as their exact issues are unclear and would require further electrician evaluation.

Also the timer itself seems “sticky” and not working correct = a simple swap out timer ($70) might be wise.

Valving and Plumbing
The plumbing is 1.5-inch on the return side and 1.5-inch plus 1.25-inch on the suction side. This creates an instant bottleneck due to limited returns, which slightly increases pressure on the pump and filter.
It may be worth considering replacing the suction line with a return line to help alleviate pressure on the pump and filter, allowing the pump to last longer.
On the pool equipment pad, repaint, re-label, and cover from UV exposure. This is needed now and would cost less than $300 total.
At the same time, service the suction side valve, as it appears original and previously serviced. Recommend replacing the guts for a new, fresh setup — good for another 10 to 30+ years. Cost: around $300.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Repaint, re-label, and UV cover on equipment pad: <$300
• Suction side valve guts replacement: ~$300
• Suction-to-return line conversion (if pursued): major work (cost not estimated)