Pool Surface (Plaster)
The plaster surface is in relatively good condition overall. It appears to be approximately 10–15 years old (possibly older).
Some accelerated wear is visible, especially on the top step edges. This is likely because the first step is very shallow (less than 6 inches deep). Mottling and pitting are present on many of the steps. The top step of the deep end entry and both shallow-end entry steps show pits coming off in the corners.
These signs indicate the plaster is in the last 25% of its typical 30-year life cycle.
I do not feel resurfacing is needed right now, but it will likely be required in the next 3–10 years or sooner if water loss persists.
For a pool of this size, full replastering would cost between $8,000 and $12,000.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Full replastering (when needed): $8,000–$12,000

Waterline Tile
The waterline tile looks relatively in good shape overall with no major issues.
The only questionable areas are at the skimmer-to-tile connection and inside the skimmer throat. These may need attention in the next 1–10 years or less. Resealing the plastic-to-tile connection would cost around $100.
No calcium buildup is present. Mastic has been applied on the majority of the waterline where the concrete meets the tile. Only a few small spots show gaps forming, but nothing substantial at this time.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Skimmer-to-tile connection reseal: ~$100
• No other immediate costs required

Concrete Decking
The concrete decking around the pool has some uneven sections that should be ground down sooner than later to avoid trip hazards. The main areas needing attention are one spot on the west side and one on the northeast side.
Many of the plastic strips (expansion joints) are also due for update.
Estimated cost:
• Grinding the uneven sections: less than $500
• Updating the plastic strips: less than $500
• Total for both: around $1,000
Some extra work may also be needed on the coping.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Grinding uneven decking + updating plastic strips: ~$1,000
• Additional coping work: not separately estimated

Water Quality
This pool receives a lot of debris from overhead trees, so the skimmer, main drain, and bottom cleaner bag need regular weekly service to keep up with the heavy organic load.
At this time, the pool is compensating for the massive amount of organic matter with very high chlorine (likely over 20 ppm). pH and alkalinity are out of balance (alkalinity over 120, pH over 7.6). Cyanuric acid is a little low (likely 30–50 ppm), while calcium hardness is a little high (around 650 ppm).
Recommendations:
• Raise cyanuric acid slightly from 30–50 to 50–60 ppm (less than $50).
• Lower alkalinity and slightly lower pH (~$20).
• Perform water treatments right away to address the abundant organic matter and phosphates. These should include heavy phosphate removal in early spring to prevent algae growth over summer. Estimated cost for treatments: $200–$300.
Once-yearly phosphate treatments are recommended for ongoing control.
Cost summary (this section only)
• CYA adjustment: <$50
• pH/alkalinity adjustment: ~$20
• Organic matter / phosphate treatments: $200–$300

Main Drain
The main drain has an updated cover that appears potentially VGBA compliant, though this cannot be fully confirmed at this time.
The cover itself shows a gap on the west side — it is lifting, likely due to damage or poor installation. This needs attention.
Estimated cost:
• Service/repair: ~$100
• Parts (if the cover is damaged): ~$150
Cost summary (this section only)
• Main drain cover repair/service: ~$100–$250

Skimmer
The skimmer is in relatively good condition overall for its age (approximately 27 years old).
No major blemishes, cracks, or issues are visible. There is some chlorine wear, but nothing overly substantial.
Recommend updating the following components soon for better performance and safety: float, float O-ring, weir door, weighted basket, and a new skimmer lid.
Estimated cost for all parts and installation: less than $500.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Float, O-ring, weir door, weighted basket, and lid replacement (installed): <$500

Bottom Cleaner
The bottom cleaner is a Polaris 380 with a dual chamber bag, which makes perfect sense given the heavy leaf debris in this backyard.
The tail has a cut in it and may need updating. The unit may also need minor adjustments to the hose length or tail power.
Less than $100 in updates will likely take care of these issues.
The wall adapter is also pushing out a lot of excess water pressure, which can be a sign it needs updating as well.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Tail, hose, and wall adapter updates: <$100

Pool Light
The pool light is an older, water present inside the light lens - it’s a smaller 8-inch SwimQuip style.
The light can can be updated, but finding the exact size may be difficult. Replacement options:
• Incandescent light can: $300–$700
• Installation: ~$400
At the time of replastering, it would be wise to update the niche to a standard 10-inch size. This upgrade would cost about $1,500 on top of the replastering work.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Light can replacement + install: $700–$1,100
• Niche upgrade to 10-inch (at replaster): ~$1,500

Filter
The filter is a D.E. model showing 12 psi, but the gauge is very old and likely no longer accurate. There is also a leak on the push-pull backwash valve.
The backwash valve needs attention — either service (~$200 or less) or full replacement (new valve less than $200).
Because this is an older D.E. filter, internal service may also be due. In my opinion, it is not the best fit for this pool due to the high organic load. Servicing the current filter (including the valve and internals) could reach $750 or less.
A better long-term option would be to replace it with a sand filter:
• Pentair TA 100 D
• Pentair TR 140 C (preferred due to the amount of organic matter)
Cost summary (this section only)
• Backwash valve service or replacement: <$200
• Full D.E. filter service (valve + internals): up to ~$750
• New sand filter (TA 100 D or TR 140 C) + install: $1,500–$3,500 (recommended)

Filter Pump
The filter pump appears brand new with no visible issues. It is connected via copper plumbing that serves as the bonding connection (this may or may not meet current city code, depending on local requirements).
The only concern is insufficient water supply to the pump. It is currently running in a 10% (or slightly higher) stressed state. Although the motor is not warm and shows no signs of immediate distress, this low flow condition will likely cause the pump to expire prematurely.
Cost summary (this section only)
• No immediate costs required
• Future pump replacement due to stress (if flow is not improved): not estimated here
Let me know the next section when you’re ready.

Booster Pump
The booster pump is in ideal working condition with a connected bonding wire. No leaks are present. It shows only slight sun damage, consistent with less than three years of exposure.
There are no immediate needs.
Eventually, it would be wise to update the booster hoses to hard plumbing for better longevity, as the current hoses are susceptible to UV damage. Estimated cost: around $400.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Hard plumbing upgrade for booster hoses: ~$400

Board and Timer
The timer board is in fair condition with no major issues visible.
I was not able to locate any GFCI breaker for the equipment pad. It would be wise to add a subpanel with GFCI breakers (including one for the variable-speed pump). This could be mounted on the wall instead of in the middle of the equipment pad (optional).
Estimated cost: ~$300 for parts + ~$300 for electrician service.
A simple $10 plastic cover for the terminals on the filter pump would also be a good minor addition.
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI subpanel + breakers + electrician: ~$600
• Plastic terminal cover: ~$10

Plumbing and Fittings
Everything above ground is leak-free at this time except for the filter push-pull backwash valve.
There are two clamps plugging holes that were added at some point. One clamp looks quite worn. There is at least a 10% chance they are not fully watertight. Budget a $125 service call to investigate and confirm. If they need to be cut out and replaced, expect around $500 or more. It may be wise to do this anyway to eliminate the risk.
On the suction side, the same story applies.
I’m not excited about the 1.5-inch suction and return lines on this heavily debris-filled pool, especially since the pump can move three times as much water as the pipe can safely supply. Keeping the pump speed from running too high for too long will help protect it.
Underground copper plumbing is more susceptible to issues due to movement and age. Budget for updating the copper lines at the next resurfacing or remodel stage (this may involve removing some concrete decking or working inside the pool shell).
Given the high organic load, consider adding a second skimmer and more returns during the remodel to improve circulation and reduce debris buildup. Rough estimate for these upgrades: $5,000–$20,000 depending on scope and options.
On the equipment pad, paint and label everything and cover it from UV exposure with mesh. This can be done for less than $300 (can be bundled with the plumbing work above).
Cost summary (this section only)
• Service call to investigate clamps: $125
• Clamp repair/replacement (if needed): ~$500+
• Paint, label, and UV mesh on equipment pad: <$300
• Future copper plumbing update + second skimmer + additional returns (at remodel): $5,000–$20,000
Let me know the next section.