Pool Surface
The plaster surface is older and shows spider and check cracking, especially in the shallow end. There are also many random pits and wear markings throughout, with some gray areas in the middle end that appear close to the gunite.
Due to the extent of the cracking and wear, the surface likely has no more than another 5–10 years of life left (probably closer to 5 years). If the gray areas have reached the gunite, the surface may have less than a year before resurfacing is required.
Ongoing water loss (if confirmed) could accelerate this timeline and may be directly related to the surface condition.
For a pool of this size, full resurfacing would likely cost $12,000–$16,000.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Full resurfacing: $12,000–$16,000

Decking Around the Pool
The concrete decking around the swimming pool is in poor condition, especially on the west side near the tree roots. In that area the concrete is sharply angled, patched, and very slippery. The patched sections lack any texture or cool-deck material, creating a clear slip and trip hazard on approximately 15–20 feet of decking.
This area is not safe until the concrete is leveled and textured. Leveling or texturing the affected sections would likely cost $500–$1,000. It may be more efficient to remove and replace the worst sections with new concrete to properly correct the level and tie it in with the grass.
At the same time, it would be wise to update the skimmer. The current skimmer appears to be several remodels old and in relatively poor condition. Replacing the skimmer during the deck work would likely add less than $1,000 extra but would pay for itself by preventing future leaks.
Elsewhere around the pool there are some cracks, gaps, and minor unevenness typical of concrete decking older than 30–35 years. The section closest to the house is in relatively good shape and the least affected. Some pieces of the channel drain gutter system will need updating (less than $500). The majority of the issues are concentrated on the southwest side.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Deck leveling/texturing (15–20 ft): $500–$1,000
• Skimmer replacement (during deck work): <$1000- 3500 x 2 extra
• Channel drain gutter updates: <$500

Waterline Tile
The waterline tile and raised wall tile appear to have been recently updated, likely within the past five years. This looks like a slap-on-top job — older tile is likely still underneath with new tile simply attached over it.
The same approach was used in the skimmer throats, creating a noticeable bulge with an extra layer of tile. While it may have been sealed correctly, further investigation is recommended at the skimmer-to-tile connections, especially if water loss continues.
Water chemistry shows relatively new freshwater, which could be from a recent refill or prolonged water loss. The skimmer-to-tile connection would be the primary suspected leak location.
The new connection appears decent with no visible gaps, and the tile is in good visual condition overall. However, the work at the actual connection point looks sloppy, as if done only for visual purposes. We do not know the condition of the original tile underneath.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Further investigation / leak detection (starting at skimmer-to-tile connections): $500
• No other immediate costs required

Water Quality
Water quality shows low calcium hardness and low cyanuric acid, indicating new water or ongoing water loss. The auto fill was running upon arrival, supporting possible water loss. Chlorine has dropped to nearly zero free chlorine, which is not ideal given the high organic debris load from the five large overhanging trees.
The pool would benefit from better circulation (currently limited by the single 2-inch suction line).
Recommend at least $200 in chemical treatments to balance the water, raise CYA and calcium hardness, restore proper chlorine levels, and address dissolved organic matter. This will help bring the pool to spring-ready condition with minimal ongoing work. Retest the water chemistry in 1–30 days to confirm whether water loss is present.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Chemical balancing and treatments: ~$200 or less
• Retest in 1–30 days: no additional cost noted

Main Drain
The main drain cover appears updated at first glance, but upon closer inspection it was installed crooked. The pipe is a single line positioned relatively close to the grate, which may prevent it from being fully VGBA compliant.
Worst case, updating it to a true compliant cover will require demoing the area with a jackhammer, splitting the pipe into two, or creating proper spacing between the bottom of the grate and the pipe.
Estimated cost for this work: $500–$1,500.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Main drain upgrade to VGBA compliant (demo + piping adjustments): $500–$1,500

Skimmer
There are two skimmers.
It would be wise to consider updating both at the next resurfacing, although they may still have some life remaining.
The southwest skimmer appears to have one port blocked off. It needs a new weir door, lid, float, and float O-ring — total cost less than $300.
The northeast skimmer has a weir door installed and appears to be working, but it needs a new weighted basket, float, float O-ring, and lid — total cost around $300.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Southwest skimmer components (weir door, lid, float, O-ring): <$300
• Northeast skimmer components (weighted basket, float, O-ring, lid): ~$300

Also know that I am seeing over circulation in the northeast skimmer and under circulation in the southwest skimmer.

Bottom Cleaner
The bottom cleaner appears to be due for service ASAP. The track is about ready to fall off due to prolonged use. Worst case, it will need service in the $200–$300 range or more. This would likely include new hose swivels or repair of the swivel function, plus new tracks.
Even though the unit is probably only 1–2 years old, less than $200–$300 in service and parts is likely needed right now.
Additionally, the cleaner is plugged into what appears to be a high-voltage underground plug. I am not confident the vault is watertight or properly drainable. This is dangerous, especially during the rainy season, and should be considered a hazard.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Bottom cleaner service and parts (track, swivels, etc.): $200–$300

Older working, but leaking during use recommend minor service $125-250

Pool Light
The pool light is working but condensation is present and appears older. It is hard to tell the exact type, but it may be a simple incandescent.
Replacement options:
• Incandescent light can: $400–$700
• LED color-changing light: $700–$1,200 (Pentair Architectural Series 10-inch color 12V is ~$1,100)
Installation/service cost for any of these options is around $400.
The light is currently powered by Romex wire, which is not ideal for pool lights. Recommend modifying it with properly rated wire for safety (likely less than $100).
Cost summary (this section only)
• Incandescent replacement + install: $800–$1,100
• LED color-changing replacement + install: $1,100–$1,600
• Romex to rated wire modification: <$100

Filter
The filter is a Jandy CL 580 in like-new condition, less than three years old.
Pressure reads around 7 psi with the pump at 80% speed. This indicates the cartridges are not due for cleaning right now, but will likely need regular service in the next month or so.
Service cost for this filter: ~$100.
No other issues are present.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Filter service (next month): ~$100

Filter Pump
The filter pump is a Pentair IntelliFlo i3 1.5 HP with an LED display. Everything on it is working and in ideal condition.
The only issues noted are:
• The pump is not bonded (recommend adding bonding for safety: ~$100).
• Water bugs are present inside the pump basket (recommend water treatments to resolve this).
No other major issues were seen.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Bonding addition: ~$100
• Water treatments for bugs in basket: not separately estimated (can be included in general water balancing)

Booster Pump
The booster pump is less than three years old and in working condition overall.
The main issues are leaking at the seal plate and the suction side connection. The hoses are also in need of attention (already noted in the valve section).
These leaks will likely require service that could exceed the cost of the pump itself.
If replacement is chosen, a new Pentair Boost-Right pump is around $550, with installation ~$450. Adding hard plumbing instead of soft hoses would cost an extra ~$400 for a more durable, UV-resistant connection.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Seal plate + suction connection service: likely high (potentially more than pump cost)
• New booster pump + install: ~$1,000
• Hard plumbing upgrade: ~$400 extra

This blower appears to be going nowhere, but in reality it’s likely going to where the old Spa may have been still I do not see any blow off when it is ran. This can be removed at desired for less than $100.

Heater
The heater is dead.
It should be removed and the lines capped for less than $500.
If you want to replace it, a comparable 400,000 BTU gas heater costs around $4,500 for the unit. Installation (including new gas connection, pressure regulator, and plumbing) would add approximately $1,000.
First, have the gas company test the existing gas line for free to confirm it is safe and holding pressure before doing any work.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Heater removal and capping: <$500
• New 400,000 BTU heater + installation: ~$5,500
• Gas line safety test: $0 (gas company)

Board and Timer
The board and timer is an older panel (unlikely original) that is heavily sun-beaten and has been painted over for protection. It still functions but shows its age.
I was not able to get the filter pump or booster pump to turn on, even with the switches in the on position. Power is present at the panel (spa blower pump worked), but there is no power reaching the pumps and no response when pressing buttons — they do not light up at all. This suggests a wiring, relay, or connection issue between the panel and the pumps.
It does not need immediate full replacement, but updating would be wise. Options include adding a GFCI subpanel with new breakers/switches (~$650–$950) or a more complete update with relocation to the house wall and simplification (since the smart pump handles most functions). Full update with conduit adjustments: roughly $1,250.
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI subpanel + breakers/switches: ~$650–$950
• Full update + relocation + conduit work: ~$1,250
• Troubleshooting power issue to pumps: requires electrician diagnosis (cost not estimated)

Note

Plumbing
The plumbing has been partially updated on the top layer, but it still contains old Ortega valves that likely once distributed water to an abandoned spa or other equipment under the concrete pad to the east of the pool.
There are also old ball valves, heater connections, and several abandoned pipes. All of this is older and could be consolidated and updated for better reliability and efficiency.
It would be wise to dig up and either remove or replace the old Ortega valves and associated plumbing.
Cost to perform this work (including consolidation and updates): $1,000–$1,500.
Additionally, the plumbing should be repainted, re-labeled, and covered with UV mesh to protect it from sun exposure. No copper connections are visible above ground, but older copper lines may still exist below ground given the pool’s age.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Plumbing consolidation and valve updates: $1,000–$1,500
• Repaint, re-label, and UV mesh: ~$200–$300 (can be included in the above package)