Pool Surface (Plaster)
The plaster surface on this large pool (~30,000–32,000 gallons) is heavily burned and pitted throughout, especially on the entry steps, top step, corners, and in the spa. The main cause is prolonged high chlorine levels, likely from salt system use.
The surface appears potentially watertight for now, but water chemistry does not support that. Based on visible condition alone, it has less than one month of remaining life and should be resurfaced in the next 1–24 months (or sooner once water loss/chemistry is confirmed in 1–30 days).
Cost for full replaster on a pool this size: $10,000–$14,000 depending on finish and options.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Full replaster: $10,000–$14,000

Tile (Waterline and Related Areas)
Waterline tile is in ideal condition overall—no loose, missing, or damaged tiles. Raised brick wall also looks good with no loose bricks or missing mortar.
The only concern is the skimmer to plaster connection and the skimmer concrete top: it is decomposing, especially at the inlets. This entire area needs updating soon / current hazard. Cost to update skimmer, concrete, and connection: $1,000–$3,000 (best to do skimmer and concrete together due to heavy chlorine burn).

Some water stop between concrete and tile shows small issues in a few spots. Cut out and replace with mastic: <$300 for the affected areas, or <$1,000 if doing the entire border.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Skimmer + concrete + connection update: $1,000–$3,000
• Water stop repair (small areas): <$100
• Full border water stop replacement: <$1,000

Tile (Waterline and Related Areas – Additional Notes)
There is some settling on the south top concrete pad, causing a minor gap between the concrete and the pool tile border in that area.
Around the diving board, the concrete has cracked, likely from repeated use. I do not recommend using the diving board until these issues receive additional attention. The diving board itself is older, and I cannot guarantee its safety due to age and the settling concrete beneath it.
The concrete around the diving board is settled with no notable trip hazard at this time, but it will likely need attention in the next 30 years or less.
On the brick coping, a settling crack is visible but is cosmetic only at this time.
Cost summary (this section only – additions)
• No immediate costs noted for these settling/cracking issues
• Future concrete/diving board repairs: not estimated (scope TBD)

Water Quality
Calcium hardness is nominal (250–400 ppm). Free chlorine is very high (10–20 ppm), pH and alkalinity are slightly high, and cyanuric acid is low.
Slight green tint and organic matter on walls likely from planter overflow raising phosphates. This explains the high chlorine demand and elevated pH/alkalinity. No definitive water loss, but readings lean that way or toward newer water (1–2 years).
Recommend immediate treatments: lower pH/alkalinity, raise CYA, control organics/phosphates while keeping chlorine high. Waiting 1–2 months could double costs.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Water treatments: $100–$300 (or more if delayed)

Skimmer
The skimmer is heavily chlorine burned (8 out of 10).
It would be wise to update minor components for better function, circulation, and self-cleaning: new float, float O-ring, weir door, and possibly a new skimmer lid.
All of these can be replaced for less than $500 installed.
This is not urgent structural work but will improve performance and prolong usability until a full update is done.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Float, O-ring, weir door, and lid replacement (installed): <$500

Main Drains
The spa has two main drains and the pool has one. None appear to be fully VGBA compliant (even the spa ones are questionable).
All three covers need updating for safety.
Replacement cost: ~$100 each installed × 3 = ~$300 total.
At the time of replastering, upgrade to channel (flat) drains for better bottom cleaner performance and safety—ideally two in the spa and one or two in the pool. This will add approximately $1,000 to the replaster cost but pays for itself in improved circulation and reduced maintenance.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New drain covers (3): ~$300
• Channel drain upgrades at replaster (3 locations): ~$1,000 extra

Bottom Cleaner
The bottom cleaner is miraculously still working (due to on going updates / maintenance) despite obvious abuse and wear seen. It functions well right now with no major issues.
Some parts (top, tires, and tail) have been updated, but the unit is nearing the end of its life (hopefully longer than 1 year). I would not expect it to last longer than another 12 months before needing full replacement.
Minor attention (new tail and 1–2 new tires) could be done now for less than $105 in parts. However, given its condition, it may be wiser to simply replace the entire unit when it fails.
A new similar unit costs around $450-650 on Amazon and is plug-and-play.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Minor parts (tail + 1–2 tires): <$105
• Full replacement (when needed): ~$650

Manual Fill
The manual fill is hooked up to the irrigation controller, which is a nice setup.
It appears to be in good working condition with no visible leaks, issues, or problems at this time.
Cost summary (this section only)
• No costs required

Pool Light
The pool light is a color LED that turns on and functions, but condensation is visible inside the lens. This indicates seal failure, so it should be replaced soon for safety.
A comparable Hayward or Pentair LED light can runs $700–$1,100. Cheaper options exist on Amazon ($200–$400), but a matching model is likely $700 minimum. Installation adds ~$400, for a total of ~$1,100 minimum.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Comparable LED replacement + install: ~$1,100 minimum
• Cheaper alternative: $600–$800 total (not like-model)

Spa Light
The spa light is not turning on at this time. Due to the higher water level, it is difficult to confirm, but condensation appears to be present inside the lens of this smaller 6-inch light.
It should be replaced for safety.
A comparable color Hayward spa light can costs $600–$650 (standard) to $950 (higher-end). Installation is approximately $400.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Spa light replacement + install: $1,000–$1,350 (depending on model)

Filter
The filter is a D.E. FNS Plus 48, likely 15–20+ years old. It is the probable cause of the filter pump expiring prematurely (along with chlorine abuse), as it clogs quickly and reduces flow due to its fine filtration.
The push-pull valve is newer, but the tank itself is old and leaking from the drain plug. It needs a new liquid-filled pressure gauge ($50), possible O-ring service, and element service ($250 or less).
Personally, I would not spend any money servicing this unit. Instead, replace it with a cartridge filter for much better performance and reliability.
Recommended replacements:
• AquaStar Pipeline 35,000 (cartridge): ~$800 online (solid basic upgrade, 10x better than current)
• Pentair TA-100D (my top pick for this application)
• Pentair TR-140C (overkill but best long-term option)
Cost summary (this section only)
• Current filter service (gauge + O-rings + elements): ~$300–$400 (not recommended)
• New cartridge filter + install: ~$1,200–$1,600 (depending on model chosen)

Filter Pump
The filter pump is an EcoStar SP3200DR, approximately 8 years old. It is in fair physical condition overall but heavily worn from high chlorine levels and sun exposure. Bearings are destroyed, and the motor is failing.
No bonding wire is connected (should be added for ~$100). Communication wire is present.
Due to the worn condition and age, the pump should be replaced rather than repaired.
Options:
• New motor + service: $700–$900 (motor) + ~$500 service
• New EcoStar equivalent: similar cost (slightly lower)
• Better alternatives: Pentair IntelliFlo i3 1.5 HP ($1,800) or SuperFlo VS ($1,200)
• Labor + programming + parts: ~$600
Cost summary (this section only)
• New motor + service: ~$1,200–$1,400
• Full new pump + install/programming: $1,800–$2,400 (depending on model)
• Bonding wire addition: ~$100

Spa Jet Pump
Upon arrival, the seller was able to turn on the spa jet pump easily using the air switch at the spa tile line.
When running, the motor and bearings sounded relatively good with no major issues detected. The only observed problem is a fairly substantial leak at the seal plate.
This leak appears repairable. Repairing the seal plate at a local shop would likely cost $450–$750 or less.
Minor service may also be needed for the pump lid O-ring (lube) and basket.
Otherwise, the pump is operational and in older but acceptable condition.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Seal plate repair: $450–$750
• Minor lid O-ring / basket service: minimal cost (not separately estimated)

Old Info =
The spa jet pump turns on and actually sounds to be in good condition / bearings.

Spa Jet Pump
The spa jet pump is older, 2 HP, and in poor visual condition. I was unable to get it to turn on, which is not surprising given its age and wear.
This is a very large pump for a single 2-inch line, creating excessive flow and a potential safety hazard (entrapment risk and extreme suction pressure).
Recommendation:
Do not replace the pump. Instead, remove it entirely and re-plumb the suction line to connect into the filter pump. This shares two suction ports safely and eliminates the danger. Cost: less than $800.
If you choose to keep a dedicated jet pump (higher risk), a comparable Pentair IntelliFlo i3 3 HP unit would cost ~$2,400 for the pump + installation.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Remove jet pump + re-plumb to filter pump suction (recommended): <$800
• New 3 HP jet pump + install (not recommended): ~$2,400

New Info:

Heater
The heater miraculously turned on with automation, even though the main display does not function. I was 100% blown away that it worked.
It shows notable issues, including rust on the heating chamber, plug, and other components, clearly indicating it is at the end of its life cycle. I would not expect more than another 1–12 months of remaining life.
At this time, it does turn on and heat. There is only a small drip at the drain plug, which can easily be fixed by lubricating and resealing or replacing the drain plug and O-ring (~$25).
The heater heats quickly, but it may soon have difficulty reaching above 94–95°F — a common final symptom when these units are failing. Full testing was limited due to different water levels in the pool and spa.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Drain plug / O-ring repair: ~$25
• Full heater replacement (when it fails): not estimated here (typically $4,000–$5,000+ installed for a comparable unit)

Old Info

Heater
The heater is clearly older than 20 years old, with heavy sun exposure, rust, and corroded parts visible.
I would not spend any money trying to repair or update this unit. It is due for full replacement.
A comparable replacement heater costs around $4,000. Installation (including plumbing, electrical, and gas connections) is less than $1,000.
At the time of replacement, update the gas line with a drip leg (~$300 extra).
First, have the gas company test the existing gas line for free to confirm it is safe and holding pressure before any work begins.
Cost summary (this section only)
• New heater + installation: ~$5,000
• Gas line drip leg addition: ~$300
• Gas line safety test: $0 (gas company)

Board and Timer
The board and timer appear functional overall. There are no GFCI breakers for the variable-speed pumps or other equipment.
Much of the conduit is older, and some unused connections can be eliminated. The main electrical panel has a hole in the top and shows sun damage, but it still has remaining life and does not need full replacement. Its main purpose is to automatically control the valves, which it can still do.
The lower timer box appears relatively watertight. It would be wise to update some cover protectors, paint connections, and plug holes in the conduit ports for better protection.
For safety, adding a dedicated GFCI subpanel box is recommended.
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI subpanel upgrade + installation: ~$650–$950
• Minor conduit/cover/protector updates and hole plugging: ~$100–$200 (optional)

Heater before and after test = 5 min 5 degrees.

Valves and Plumbing
There are three older three-way valves (lube style) that control suction, return, and bottom cleaner flow. All three should be cut out and replaced.
Replacing them individually would cost around $300 each (parts + labor).
However, it would be much wiser to update all the plumbing at the same time for better long-term function and efficiency. This includes removing all blue glue sections, relocating or replacing the check valve at the salt cell area (especially if adding a new heater), and installing new Jandy-style valves.
Full update (plumbing modifications, new valves, painting, labeling, and UV mesh): $1,500–$2,500 (likely closer to $2,500 if including actuators and gas line updates).
This can be done piece by piece if budget requires, but doing it all together is the most cost-effective and reliable approach.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Individual three-way valve replacements (3): ~$900
• Full plumbing/valving update (recommended): $1,500–$2,500