For safety, the fencing should swing away from the pool, given this fence does seem to work perfectly, it’s just this one minor issue per code / safety.

Pool Surface (Plaster)
The plaster surface is in very good to seemingly perfect condition for its age (approximately 10 years old). It shows no major blemishes, cracking, pitting, or delamination. The finish includes abalone shell aggregate, which remains in good shape overall with no visible degradation. Normal mottling is present, especially in the deep end of the spa, but nothing unusual or excessive for this age.
One small rust-colored stain appears on the top entry step in the shallow end. It looks surface-level only, but testing/removal is recommended to confirm it is not rebar-related: less than $100–$200.
Dust sediment is visible on the bottom around the main drains and in the spa—likely normal settling, not a surface issue.
With good maintenance (lower chlorine levels and ideal pH), the surface should have 10–20+ years of remaining life.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Rust stain testing/removal (shallow step): <$100–$200
• No other immediate costs anticipated

Tile (Waterline and Related Areas)
The waterline tile is in good overall condition with no major issues. The tile itself is in perfect shape, showing only very light calcium buildup that is not significant at this time. It can be removed if desired, but it is minor enough to wait 1–3 years for more substantial buildup before professional removal (~$500 when needed). Chemical removal may suffice for now.
Small concerns:
• On the south skimmer, a very small gap where tile meets the skimmer throat—easily filled for <$100.
• At the very top of the south skimmer connection, minor issue—lowering water level slightly can compensate.
In the spa spillover area (step side), some gaps in mortar are present. These can likely be repaired at the same time as the skimmer gap for <$1,000 (potentially <$500).
On the raised wall south side (waterfall/sheer descent area), moisture is visible on the backside, common with unsealed sheer descents or loose connections. Stones on top of the waterfall show degrading mortar between them. If ongoing waterfall use is desired, open and address water loss soon—likely $1,000–$2,000 total (exact cost unknown until opened and examined).
Cost summary (this section only)
• Skimmer gap fill: <$100
• Spa spillover mortar repair: <$500–$1,000
• Raised wall/waterfall/sheer descent repair: $1,000–$2,000
• Calcium removal (if/when needed later): ~$500

Water Chemistry
pH and alkalinity are slightly high. Cyanuric acid is around 30 ppm, calcium hardness around 100 ppm. Total chlorine is ~3 ppm, but free chlorine is zero.
No super obvious signs of water loss, but calcium hardness is only 100 ppm different from tap water—recommend balancing now (raise CYA, adjust pH/alkalinity, boost free chlorine, and possibly increase calcium hardness).
Retest chemistry in 1–30 days to confirm no ongoing loss.
Estimated cost for balancing: ~$100 or less in chemicals.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Water balancing (CYA, pH, alkalinity, chlorine, calcium): ~$100 or less

Both sets of main drain covers are updated in the pool and the spa. The spa appears to be close to 3 feet on center. It is likely up to code but if it is not a cost of less than 1k would bring this up to code (very very likely not needed - and in code ).

The skimmer has all parts present except for a weir door, expect a cost of $20 for a new door and it might be wise to consider updating the float and float O-ring as well as the skimmer lid ($100 or less total) due to age and condition.

One of my all-time favorite bottom, cleaners - it appears to be in good working condition overall, I would just recommend updating the tires and ideally the in-line leaf basket to the Pentair version - this is due for service / lid o ring / lube but is poor quality and the Pentair is far superior. It will be night and day better ($105 or less).

Without issue.

Pool Light
The pool light appears to be a newer LED at first glance due to the shiny ring, but closer inspection suggests the ring is an auxiliary cap or trim, and the bulb was updated while the light can (niche) itself remains older.
If the can is original/aged, it will likely need replacement in the next 1–12 months for safety and reliability.
Replacement cost: basic can ~$300 (Amazon), up to $1,200 for color LED; installation ~$400. Minimum total ~$700.
The light currently turns on and functions with no condensation inside the lens, so it is in working condition for now.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Light can replacement + install: ~$700 minimum (up to $1,600 for color LED)

Spa Light
The spa light is likely older than 20 years and is a smaller 6-inch fixture.
Condensation is visible inside the lens, indicating seal failure. It should be updated for safety.
Replacement options:
• Low-cost incandescent can: as low as ~$200 online
• High-quality color LED: up to ~$900
• Installation: ~$400
Cost summary (this section only)
• Incandescent replacement + install: ~$600
• Color LED replacement + install: ~$1,300

Filter
The filter is likely original (20–25 years old) and in relatively poor condition due to heavy sun exposure. It is working, but the elements are nearly due for replacement (pressure at 20 psi on high speed).
Recommend: new elements ($200 or less), new tank O-ring ($70 or less, seller already ordered one), and new liquid-filled pressure gauge (~$50). Service cost for elements + O-ring + gauge: ~$150+ (total ~$350–$500 or less).
While servicing would keep it going, the filter’s age and sun damage make a full replacement wiser long-term. New filter: ~$800 + ~$800 install/programming = ~$1,600 total (better value than repeated servicing).
Cost summary (this section only)
• Elements + O-ring + gauge + service: ~$350–$500
• Full new filter + install: ~$1,600

Filter Pump
The filter pump is in watertight condition overall with no visible motor wear beyond normal age and significant sun exposure.
The pump basket is 95% filled with water and a 5% air bubble, likely due to a worn O-ring on the lid or basket. This is a minor seal issue and can be fixed with a new O-ring (~$20) or new basket if needed, total less than $50 including labor.
Additionally, the pump is currently running at full speed (3450 RPM), which accelerates wear. Limiting the maximum speed to 3100 RPM or lower would greatly extend the motor and pump life—potentially doubling or tripling remaining life (10–30+ additional years possible with proper programming). Programming adjustment is quick (less than 30 seconds) and costs ~$20.
Cost summary (this section only)
• O-ring or basket service/replacement: <$50
• Speed programming adjustment: ~$20

Heater
The heater is surprisingly “working” and turns on as expected—I would have bet $100 it wouldn’t even fire up, but it does. This is likely due to the higher-quality specialty core in this Hayward H400 ID model.
Despite functioning now, I would be equally surprised if it lasts more than 1–3 years, and I would bet on less than 12 months remaining life given its age and condition.
Replacement with a similar 400,000 BTU heater would cost around $4,000 for the unit, plus ~$1,000 for installation (including programming and direct reconnects to gas, electrical, and plumbing).
Cost summary (this section only)
• New 400,000 BTU heater + installation: ~$5,000

It does not have an appropriate drip leg. This is likely pointless to install now but at time of next heater updates it would be an additional $500 or less.

Also note that the heater itself while turns on and heats may not heat past 93° / consistently as that is typically the last sign of issue before it is due to be updated and or replaced other than having water loss occur, which it does not appear to be losing water at this time, but it does appear turning off then on twice during the heat up test (30 min) = indicating it may be having issues now.

Board and Timer
The board is a Jandy AquaLink system in good working condition overall. No major issues are seen, and it functions properly with no visible faults or errors.
The only optional upgrade for added safety is replacing the breakers with GFCI types: one for the variable-speed pump, one for the lights, and one for the plug.
This would cost around $300 for parts/materials plus ~$350 for electrician installation (total ~$650).
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI breaker upgrade + installation: ~$650 (optional)

Valves and Equipment Pad
The equipment pad valving controls pool/spa flow. No spa bypass valve is present; adding an automated one (with actuator) would prolong heater life and cost ~$900 installed (optional, not required).
Two actuators are present for pool/spa flow—both older and will need replacement in 1–5 years (~$200 each + ~$300 installed per actuator, total ~$600 for both).
Four Jandy valves need service now. Options: low-cost O-ring service (~$50 installed per valve, total $200 for four) or replace valve guts ($150 per valve, total ~$600 for four) for longer life. At least one shows past leak signs (repaired), valves feel original and worn.
Better long-term: cut out and replace all four three-way valves, add 1–2 check valves, update plumbing fresh—high-quality Jandy setup would run ~$1,500 in parts and labor.
Minor leaks/previous leaks seen: temperature sensor, old hose bib, filter return connection—service these, replace O-rings, paint/re-label pad, add UV mesh (~$50 or less).
Cost summary (this section only)
• Immediate service (O-rings, minor leaks, paint/re-label, UV mesh): <$300+
• Valve guts replacement (four): ~$600
• Full valving/plumbing update (four three-way + check valves): ~$1,500
• Actuators replacement (two, in 1–5 years): ~$600
• Automated spa bypass addition (optional): ~$900