Non self latching, recommend modifications to bring up to a safer standard.

The surface appears to be in fair condition overall, normal wear for its age, but the surface seems to have a potential water loss location (this could also be related to the pool being over filled ? Slightly). Under the deck there is water loss occurring in the south / south east corner of the pool seen under the decking.

IF the surface has expired, which signs are pointing to that; water loss, lower cal hardness / cya levels = Therefore the surface is due to be updated - re surfacing only is 12-16K+. Expect additional costs when resurfacing to update optional, but recommended; light niche, main drain, adding returns ($5-15k+) which is highly recommended to improve all aspects of maintaining this swimming pool.

The wear seen is nominal and normally I would classify at least another 1-5 years of life remaining: likely, but with the other factors present: Resurfacing I feel is needed

The waterline tile has two areas of main concern, one near the skimmer throat, and one near the east side middle. I feel both are related to decking shifting vs pool shell. At the east side tile issue, there are some stress / cracking marks below the area (where the tile is missing) but nothing substantial. This could be a new issue and developing, if so continue to monitor and confirm if a gap begins to form. In the mean time recommend attention to water proof these areas via professional mortars addition / potential flexible material (not necessarily preferred).

To update these two affected areas expect a cost of $500-1500+ depending on depth of issue especially at the skimmer throat area).

Ideal water chemistry overall, but due for minor attention at this time; ph and chlor adjustments asap and do not wait more than 3 days from now to treat.

Treatments including adding CYA will cost approx $200+

Also recommend adding a Phosphate Removal Device

A very old skimmer, due to be updated at time of resurfacing ($1500+) in the mean time, recommend updating the basket to weighted, float, float o ring, weir door, lid, etc ($500+)

The main drain cover should be updated at least with a new compliant cover ($100+) and at time of re plaster updated complete ($500+)

Newer, working, without major issue, recommend minor tightening / tune up and maybe some hose mods, but overall unit is working, likes to get stuck in the entry step corner. New tail / tires / service ($200+ in the next 6-12 months)

Could not turn on.

Older light can likely 8” - proprietary can (niche), recommend updating at time of re surfacing ($1500+) in the mean time it is likely this light can - A new similar can is $300+ install $400 ($700).

This filter is due for service as the pressure is slightly high ($150) also recommend checking the element life to see if updating is needed ($500). Otherwise without major issue seen. Newer.

This pump is expiring soon, decomposing metal motor base. Recommend a like pump (Superflo Vs or i3 3hp - $1600-2800+ install).

The heater is a natural gas unit in distressed/aged condition.
Likely causes of distress: undersized gas supply line (insufficient gas pressure/flow) and/or inadequate water flow during operation.
The heater itself needs replacement due to age and condition.
Recommend first testing and upgrading the gas line/supply before installing a new heater to avoid repeating issues.
Replacement options:
• New natural gas heater (266,000–333,000 BTU): ~$5,000 installed.
• Heat pump (now mandated in California for new installations): Consider this for efficiency and compliance; may require electrical supply upgrade (panel, wiring, etc.).
Cost summary (this section only)
• New gas heater installed: ~$5,000
• Heat pump alternative: Cost TBD (higher upfront, potential electrical upgrade needed)
• Gas line testing/upgrade: Not estimated (priority before heater replacement)

Equipment Panel
The equipment panel consists of four boxes mounted to a piece of plywood.
Two timers are present (slightly older but appear functional).
There is a very old shut-off fuse box (purpose unclear, recently serviced but not GFCI-related).
A fourth box appears to be an unused fuse system.
None of the setup provides GFCI protection.
Recommend upgrading the entire panel for safety: remove plywood mounting, install a more substantial and durable setup, replace with a new dual-timer box with GFCI-rated breakers (Siemens or equivalent).
This upgrade includes GFCI protection for all pool equipment (filter pump has its own built-in timer but still benefits from panel-level GFCI).
Estimated cost:
• GFCI breakers: ~$300
• New dual-timer box: ~$350
• Electrician labor/install: ~$300
• Total installed: ~$750–$950
Cost summary (this section only)
• Full equipment panel upgrade to GFCI dual-timer setup: ~$750–$950

Recommend covering this from UV / painting / labeling ($300+).