Pool Surface
The pool surface is heavily stained and worn, with visible pitting present across more than 10% of the area, most notably in the shallow end and along the step edges.
These conditions—extensive staining, wear, and pitting—are clear indicators that the surface has expired and is due for replacement.
A full resurfacing for a pool of this size typically costs $8,000 to $12,000, depending on the chosen finish material and options.
During resurfacing, the following related updates can be efficiently addressed at the same time:
• Tile update: Likely less than $2,000 (including tile cost)
• Adding two additional return inlets: Approximately $2,000
• Skimmer update/replacement: Approximately $2,000
• Pool light niche update: Approximately $500
• Installing a new main drain (if desired): $1,000 to $5,000
Cost summary (this section only)
• Full surface resurfacing: $8,000–$12,000
• Tile update (during resurfacing): <$2,000
• Additional return inlets (2): ~$2,000
• Skimmer update: ~$2,000
• Light niche update: ~$500
• New main drain installation: $1,000–$5,000

The waterline tile section shows no major issues: no loose, missing, cracked, or popped tiles observed. All tiles remain intact and securely in place.

However, there is noticeable calcium buildup across much of the tile surface, which is common in older pools with hard water. This buildup can be professionally removed for approximately $500 to $650.

Closer inspection reveals organic matter buildup on some tiles, likely from prolonged improper water balance, including what appears to be black algae or similar growth in the grout lines and tile joints. (This ties into the water quality findings discussed separately.)

Between the tile and the surrounding concrete deck, a water stop (expansion joint material) is present around most of the perimeter. On the south side, this water stop is largely ineffective due to significant concrete movement and shifting. Gaps have formed, allowing water intrusion and further deterioration.

Addressing these gaps could involve removing the failed water stop and filling the areas with mastic as a temporary to medium-term solution (potentially lasting 5 to 10 years), with costs likely in the $1,000 to $2,000 range given the extent of the gaps. A more permanent fix would require removing the contributing trees (causing soil movement and root pressure), allowing the concrete to resettle or be re-leveled, then filling with mastic or a similar sealant. The full scope and cost of any concrete resettling remain unknown until the trees are removed.

Overall, concrete movement is evident on more than half the pool perimeter—most prominently from the autofill canister southward to the equipment area, then eastward along the tree line. This degree of shifting is concerning and points to ongoing soil or root-related issues rather than isolated settling.

Cost summary (this section only):
• Calcium removal: $500–$650
• Mastic fill (gaps): $1,000–$2,000
• Concrete resettling (if pursued): Unknown until trees removed

Pool right, tap left.

Water Quality
The pool water appears fresh and recently added (no detectable chlorine present).
This suggests either:
• Ongoing water loss with continuous autofill operation, or
• A recent full drain and refill.
Organic matter buildup around the tile line (e.g., algae) indicates poor sanitization and imbalance.
Recommend phosphate removal and rebalancing treatments before spring, including raising cyanuric acid for chlorine stability. Treatments typically cost $100–$300 depending on method.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Phosphate removal + rebalancing (including CYA): $100–$300

Main Drain


No main drain is present; it appears to have been filled in with concrete over the original drain during a prior remodel.
A suction-side bottom cleaner is installed, which helps compensate for the missing drain by aiding debris movement and floor-level circulation. More frequent use or rental of the cleaner may improve water movement.
Note: With no main drain, the bottom cleaner becomes a potential entrapment hazard. If used with smaller children or adults, consider upgrading to a model with entrapment detection (e.g., Pentair i3) for added safety.

Circulation


Only two return inlets are visible, likely resulting in inadequate circulation. This can cause uneven flow, reduced chemical distribution, and stagnant areas.
Adding at least two additional return inlets would significantly improve circulation. The exact number, placement, and feasibility will be determined at the time of remodel, when the pool is drained and plumbing access is available.

Skimmer


The skimmer appears relatively newer than the pool’s overall age, but surrounding concrete movement has affected the area, and the unit shows signs of 10–20+ years of service.
It may be wise to update or replace the skimmer during a future remodel or if leaks develop. Replacement typically costs $1,500+ depending on plumbing adjustments and integration with other work.
In the meantime, replace the float, float O-ring, weir door, lid, and weighted basket for better performance ($500+).
Cost summary (this section only)
• Additional return inlets (2+): To be determined at remodel
• Skimmer update/replacement: $1,500+ (if leaks develop or at remodel)
• Skimmer component replacements: $500+

Working, in fair to poor shape. Older. One or two newer hoses. Likely due for full swap out ($500 The Pool Cleaner 4 Wheel + Pentair / Rainbow In Line Leaf Basket ($100) vs putting any money into this cleaner when issues develop next.

The float is due to be updated inside the is can, also the fill is running continuously, therefore recommend service + new float and confirm if issue exists. Also consider trimming plants around this fill as any debris that goes into this fan will stop the fill line which is not ideal.

Pool Light
The pool light is a standard 10-inch fixture.
Water is visible inside the light lens, indicating a seal failure and likely internal damage. The light will need to be replaced.
A new incandescent light fixture and can typically cost around $600 for parts, plus approximately $400 for labor, for a total of about $1,000.
At the time of replastering or resurfacing, consider updating the light niche as well to ensure proper integration with the new surface and long-term leak prevention.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Replacement of light fixture and can: ~$1,000 (parts $600 + labor $400)

Filter
The filter is a Sta-Rite System:3 Model S7M120 (cartridge-style).
The pressure gauge is very old and likely inaccurate or hard to read.
The cartridge elements show signs of being overdue for service. Given the visible organic matter (e.g., algae on the tile line), the elements are likely in need of thorough cleaning at minimum and more realistically full replacement.
• Replacement of cartridge elements: Approximately $600
• Service/replacement of tank O-ring (recommended at the same time): Approximately $100
The filter tank itself is not leaking at present and appears to be functioning, but poor element condition is contributing to reduced filtration performance and circulation issues.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Cartridge element replacement: ~$600
• Tank O-ring service/replacement: ~$100

Filter Pump
The filter pump is about 25 years old.
It runs and turns on, but there is a leak at the return fitting on the wet end.
Most likely cause: cracked/split wet end (common at this age).
Less likely: failed return connection or seal.
• Return connection repair: ~$200
• Wet end replacement: ~$800
• If wet end needs replacement, install full new variable-speed pump (e.g., Pentair SuperFlo VS) instead: ~$1,200 (pump) + ~$400 labor
Labor for any repair/replacement: ~$400.
Update conduit to pump during work: ~$100.
Bonding wire is present and intact.
The pump lid O-ring is due for replacement, and the pump basket is also worn. Both can be replaced together for approximately $50.
The leak is not large but must be addressed soon to prevent worsening or damage.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Return connection repair: ~$200
• Wet end replacement: ~$800
• Full new variable-speed pump + labor: ~$1,600
• Conduit update: ~$100
• Pump lid O-ring + basket replacement: ~$50

Electrical Subpanel and Timer
The timer appears brand new and in good condition.
The subpanel is likely 5 to 15 years old and shows typical age-related wear.
The pump breaker is not GFCI-protected. Upgrading to a GFCI breaker is recommended for safety (approx. $200).
The subpanel is mounted on a thin, old plywood board that can break easily with minimal force (less than 50 lbs). Remounting to a secure unistrut metal system is recommended for durability and safety (approx. $400).
Cost summary (this section only)
• GFCI breaker upgrade (pump): ~$200
• Subpanel remount to unistrut: ~$400

Original Valving present is copper. Current appears to be pvc.

Valves and Plumbing

The 26-year-old valving system is due for an update within the next 10 years. This includes new valves, 90s, and related components.
Updating to quality parts (ideally Jandy) typically costs $1,000–$1,500. It can improve system efficiency by 10% or more, yielding long-term energy savings.
Plumbing lines should be painted for UV protection and labeled for clear identification.
A section-side valve is restricting pump flow by up to 50%, which is not ideal and shortens the life of the pump and filter. This restriction should be corrected or removed.
Cost summary (this section only)
• Valve update (new valves, 90s, etc.): $1,000–$1,500 (within 10 years)
• Plumbing paint and labeling: Included in valve work
• Correction of restrictive valve: Included in valve update scope