The pool surface shows noticeable cracking throughout the basin. A continuous crack runs along the bottom corner, branching out in a spiderweb pattern across the floor and lower walls.
This cracking typically indicates one of two issues. The more likely is failure of the plaster surface itself, as the cracks appear confined there. Structural failure of the gunite shell would usually extend cracks upward into the walls, tile, or concrete, suggesting shifting or foundational problems. Since the cracks do not extend much into the tile or upper walls, the issue seems limited to the plaster.
The plaster is likely older than 30 years, exceeding its typical lifespan of 15 to 30 years. As a waterproof barrier, its cracking means it no longer prevents water from reaching the non-waterproof gunite shell, potentially causing leaks.
Full severity requires evaluation during remodel, when affected areas are jackhammered to check for gunite or rebar issues. Findings lean toward surface failure, but some uncertainty remains due to age and extent.
Repair costs: Resurfacing (if plaster only) for this pool size typically runs $10,000 to $14,000 for standard replastering, varying by finish and options. If gunite work is needed, add $5,000 to $10,000 or more for rebar, patching, or reapplication.
Monitor water loss in the interim, as leakage could worsen conditions.

The waterline tile appears to be original and in relatively good condition for its likely age of over 35 years. Some calcium buildup is present on the tiles, but it affects less than 20% of the surface. All tiles remain intact and in place, with no major cracks, chips, or missing pieces observed. The tile surface looks to be waterproof with no evident issues.
Above the tile is the coping, separated by a mortar border. This mortar border appears relatively newer—likely installed within the last 10 years—in some areas, particularly noticeable on the west and south sides. Separation is occurring between the coping and tile at the top of the mortar border in multiple spots. The concrete coping stones themselves show signs of age, including cracking down the middle and forming gaps between individual stones. These issues are consistent with seasonal expansion and contraction over time in older concrete coping. While nothing appears immediately alarming, the condition is nearing a point where further deterioration is likely.
At the time of plastering or resurfacing, it would be prudent to address the coping. Options include re-mortaring the gaps between the coping stones and the tile line to restore waterproofing, which should cost less than $1000. Replacing or reinforcing the coping stones with a different material could run $2,000 to $4,000 depending on the chosen approach and options. Tiling the waterline separately (if pursued independently) would typically cost $2,000 to $4,000.
The surrounding concrete deck shows gaps and trip hazards, most notably on the west side, as well as under the bench on the east side and between the pool and chimney. These should be ground down or filled to eliminate hazards, with work in these areas likely costing around $1000.
Handrails feel firm and stable to the touch, but their foundations show signs of deterioration. Given the condition of the handrails and hardware, removal is likely the most straightforward option at a cost of $500 or more. Reinforcement with additional concrete could be considered as an alternative.
On the east side bench, the metal hardware appears not to be bonded electrically. This is a newer safety requirement that post-dates the pool’s original construction. At remodel, adding a bonding wire to the bench hardware would provide an additional layer of safety, typically costing $500 or more.

The water quality indicates that the pool water may be older, suggesting limited recent dilution or turnover. This supports the possibility that significant water loss is not currently occurring through the cracked surface, meaning the plaster could be holding water adequately at present. However, consistent chemical maintenance or elevated cyanuric acid (CYA) levels can skew interpretations of water age and loss.
Clarity is good, but the chemistry is poor for safe use. Free chlorine is very high at 10 to 20 ppm, well above typical safe swimming ranges (generally 1 to 3 ppm, or up to 4-5 ppm in some contexts without irritation risks). CYA is also very high, over 100 ppm and likely over 120 ppm. Ideal CYA for most chlorinated pools is 30 to 50 ppm (higher in some sunny or saltwater setups, but rarely exceeding 80-100 ppm without issues). At these elevated levels, CYA acts as a “forever chemical” that does not break down naturally, reducing chlorine’s sanitizing effectiveness and potentially requiring partial draining to lower it.
Other chemistry parameters appear relatively normal or nominal, with no immediate adjustments needed beyond addressing the high CYA and allowing chlorine to naturally decrease over time for safer use. To reduce CYA, draining half or most of the pool is typically required, with associated costs around $200 for a partial drain (depending on local rates, water source, and disposal).
Monitor and retest after any adjustments, as high CYA can continue to impact chlorine performance even if other levels normalize.

The skimmer is extremely old—among the oldest observed in inspections—and shows clear signs of its age through the presence of copper piping at the connection, which is consistent with older pool construction.
Due to deterioration and age, the skimmer will need to be replaced during the replastering or full remodel stage to ensure proper function, watertight seals, and compatibility with updated plumbing and surface work.
The cost to update or replace the skimmer area typically ranges from $2,000 to $4,000, depending on the extent of work, parts, labor, and sequencing with other remodel tasks.
Currently, the skimmer is not functioning effectively. Organic debris is decomposing at the bottom, indicating it has not been maintained or cleaned recently and should be vacuumed out immediately. This condition further demonstrates that the skimmer is non-ideal in its present state and contributes to poor circulation and water quality issues.

Was not able to turn on. At equipment pad.

The pool light is currently not functioning. The light can (niche) may require replacement ($500+), but this is not confirmed without further inspection.
The existing niche is aged and consistent with the pool’s overall age. To determine if replacement is necessary, the light fixture and can should be removed from the niche during inspection or at the start of work to assess its condition directly.
As a general best practice, updating the light niche at the time of replastering or resurfacing is recommended. This ensures proper integration with the new surface, maintains a watertight seal, and helps prevent future leaks or electrical issues associated with disturbing an older niche later. Replacement of the light can with a new one (including a new incandescent fixture) typically costs around $600 for the can/fixture plus approximately $400 in labor, for a total of about $1,000.

Older filter. Working. But a better upgrade to this would be the Aqua Star 35000 Pipeline Filter ($800+) vs putting anymore $ into this old filter. To update this filter with a new element / service / o rings ($400+).

Over stressed pump due to dirty elements on the filter.

Working. Non bonded. No
Leaks. Due for new basket / lid ring ($100). Otherwise workin at this time.

Poor shape timer and connections. Working, but may have issue / currently has issues (lights not turning on, light switch looks ancient). So the eventual solution will be to remove all this older and update to a Sub Panel ($500) included breakers for variable speed, eliminate the timer clock as you’ll eventually get a variable speed with built in timer function, and have new updated, safe, connections. + electricians cost ($450+)

Poor shape pad. Recommend uv mesh and uv paint asap ($100+).

Also be aware this is a copper plumbed pool and will likely require re plumbing of the pad and infrastructure in the upcoming future / if not soon. This is most efficiently done at time of remodel / new concrete.