Some wear seen on top shelf of shallow end. Overall the surface has wear present throughout typical in a 20 year old surface. Water clarity is 20% reduced making the surface slightly difficult to see clearly.

Waterline Tile and Related Masonry Section
The waterline tile all appears to be in good condition overall and looks relatively new. There is only a light layer of calcium buildup present that can be removed if desired, at a cost of around $650. The main area of minimal concern is where the tile meets the rock work and in between the rocks at the waterline; this section will likely need re-grouting (or reordering) soon or now, as it is a common spot for water loss and should be properly waterproofed. This also includes addressing the skimmer throats (two total): the north one does not look as bad, but the west one appears to have a potential gap area. The cost to re-grout/reorder the skimmer throats and rock work at the waterline is likely around $1000 if only minimal issues are present, or up to around $3000 if more extensive problems are found upon closer inspection. This work would also include remodeling the waterfall, which, if it turns out to be in rougher shape than it currently appears, may require an additional $2000 for extra mortar work and related repairs.

Costs breakdown: calcium removal from waterline tile: $650. Re-grouting/reordering skimmer throats and rock work at waterline (minimal issues): $1000 to $3000. Additional waterfall remodeling and mortar work if needed: up to $2000. Total cost: 3650 to 5650 dollars (depending on extent of issues discovered)

The water quality is good, the calcium hardness level and the secondary acid levels. Both appear to be slightly low, recommend increase / balance for the approaching ($200).

Note there is water loss seen at the water fall and equipment pad. This seems evident in water results.

Skimmers Section
There are two skimmers installed. The north skimmer shows no major visual issues; the throat is in good shape overall. However, the skimmer body has significant chlorine wear present throughout, indicating that 3-inch chlorine tablets were used directly in the skimmer basket for some time, which will shorten the skimmer’s lifespan. All parts are present, but they should be updated due to wear and functionality problems: the skimmer weir door is stuck (possibly intentionally), so a new weir door, new float, and new float O-ring are recommended at approximately $200 installed. The second skimmer on the southwest side is slightly unusual as it has an added collar, but it has all parts present and appears to be in somewhat better condition with less chlorine wear, likely because no chlorine tablets were used in the basket. Still, it is recommended to replace the float and float O-ring at around $50 installed.
Costs breakdown: north skimmer weir door, float, and float O-ring replacement installed: $200. Southwest skimmer float and float O-ring replacement installed: $50. Total cost: 250 dollars

The main drain covers are due to be updated ($300) due to age and condition.

There is no cleaner present - but a Polaris 280 would connect well here ($650+) (or 360 after plumbing mods)

When I arrived I was found off. I was unable to locate the shut off / on valve - did see an auto drain (pictured). Recommend cleaning out the drain and auto fill can.

Pool Light Section
The pool light is a color-changing halogen (likely Pentair) light. It currently turns on, operates normally, and cycles through its colors without any issues. The mounting ring appears to be in good shape, and the light does not seem very old, with a possibility that it has been recently replaced. However, there is visible condensation present inside the light lens, which raises about 50% confidence that the light is due for replacement soon due to potential water intrusion and impending failure. If replacement is needed, expect a cost of around $1100 for a new Pentair architectural color-changing light, plus approximately $400 for installation.
Costs breakdown: new Pentair architectural pool light: $1100. Installation: $400. Total cost (if replacement required): 1500 dollars

Pool Filter Section
The pool filter is older, likely original to the system and approximately 15 years old, and is in overall poor condition. It is leaking from the tank O-ring, the pressure gauge is blown out, and the filter elements are due for replacement (confident they have not been updated in the past 1-5 years, as evidenced by about 20% reduced water clarity). Additionally, the tank band has a bent tightening bolt, which may require full band replacement. Recommended repairs include replacing the tank O-ring at around $50, installing a new pressure gauge at around $50, replacing the filter elements at around $500, and replacing the tank band due to the bent bolt at around $200.
Costs breakdown: tank O-ring replacement: $50. Pressure gauge replacement: $50. Filter elements replacement: $500. Tank band replacement: $200. Total cost: 800 dollars

But I do not prefer this filter versus even a sand filter or a single cartridge filter like the aqua star 35,000 all costing $800-1800 (in my opinion is the best value vs repair).

Working at this time. It is an obsolete unit so there are no readily available replacment parts = at this time the motor itself is likely due to leak any minute. In my opinion I am not sure how it is still currently water tight due to the extend of the damage found. If this lasts another season I would be very surprised. This is one of my favorite pumps, so a replacement used motor would likely run $1k+ and may allow this pump to work another 1-15+ years (longer if left out of the sun).

Vs a new comp. pump at $1600-2100 (Pentiar I3 3hp) + install and programming ($700).

At this time it’s conduit connector elbow is the only thing of issue at this moment ($200 for a whole new conduit run + elbow ).

This pump is working but in overall poor shape. I would almost just recommend a new pump since they’re such low cost ($400-600 new = Pentair BoostRite ) and install new hard plumbing as well ($600) vs doing any updates which are needed now;

Hoses ($200).

Electrical Panel, Timer, and Related Components
The board and timer is in fair physical condition - damaged current condition, leaning over and no longer properly fixed to the ground. It is currently relying on small half-inch conduits for support, which is inadequate and creates a safety hazard that needs immediate correction. This requires proper foundational attachment, likely including digging and installing two new posts at a cost of around $400. The panel internals need updates for compliance, including replacing breakers with variable speed and GFCI-compliant Siemens breakers for the filter pump at around $100, plus a GFCI breaker for the pool light (which currently has a GFCI plug but should be updated as it appears original and due for replacement) at around $40. The existing GFCI plug itself is likely due for updating at $25. Inside the timer/panel, the salt cell is likely non-functioning at this time. The panel is missing cover protector screws for the face plate, causing it to fall out when opened (simple fix with two screws at $10). Overall, this is a low-cost, older panel (likely more than 10 years old) controlling the pool equipment, solar, and salt cell; while the internals appear in fair condition, the system as a whole is outdated and requires these fixes for safety and functionality. An electrician will be required for the electrical work and compliance updates, with labor costs estimated at $350.
Foundational attachment and new posts: $400. GFCI-compliant breakers for filter pump: $100. GFCI breaker for pool light: $40. Update to existing GFCI plug: $25. Face plate screws: $10. Electrician labor: $350. Total cost: 925 dollars

Valves and Fittings Section (Updated with Equipment Pad Additions)
The pool equipment pad plumbing includes two 2-inch intakes (likely both skimmers) and two returns, hard plumbed with multiple hard elbows. There are four elbows before the water reaches the pump, which is less than ideal for flow and energy efficiency. These could be updated to smoother plumbing, including the addition of a recommended (though not required) check valve, at around $500. The two solar check valves (one on intake and one on return) are non-serviceable and should be replaced with high-quality Jandy check valves at around $300 each installed. The three-way valve for the solar is leaking profusely during use and needs immediate attention; a simple O-ring kit would cost around $25, but due to age and salt conditions, replacing the entire three-way valve is recommended at around $400 installed, or preferably starting with internal gut replacement (including new O-rings) at around $100 installed. The two solar shut-off ball valves are in fair condition with no leaking, but should have O-ring service anyway at around $75 each installed (total $150 for both). The return side has two lines at 1.5 inches (one for the waterfall and one for the main pool returns); the main pool return three-way is undersized but functional, and since the pool cleaner is also 1.5 inches it could benefit future bottom cleaner tie-in. This three-way should have internal guts replaced with Jandy internals at around $200 installed. The suction side internals should also be updated at around $200 installed to future-proof the pad for the next 30 years. Finally, the salt cell appears not very old and is likely still working (can only be fully confirmed in early spring when water temps exceed 60°); a check valve should be installed between the filter and salt cell at around $200 installed as a precautionary measure. In addition, the equipment pad itself should be painted and re-labeled for better appearance and identification at around $200, and adding UV-resistant mesh covers around $50.
Costs breakdown: hard plumbing and elbows update with check valve: $500. Solar check valves (two at $300 each installed): $600. Three-way solar valve internal guts replacement: $100. Solar shut-off ball valves O-ring service (two at $75 each installed): $150. Pool return three-way internals: $200. Suction side internals: $200. Check valve between filter and salt cell: $200. Equipment pad painting and re-labeling: $200. UV-resistant mesh covers: $50. Total cost: 2200 dollars