When opening or closing the cover it does not have kill stops added to allow the cover to not be over closed or over opened thus breaking the pulley mechanisms. Recommend service which will include adding these stops.

Appears to be blemish free with some wear seen in steps and some hardly noticed shallow end.

The waterline tile is all in ideal condition, I do not see any gaps present. I do see calcium buildup present are nearly all of the tile approximately 25 to 50%. A calcium cleaning, may run $650 or more.

The water quality shows me high ph and alk and zero chlorine and lower cya - recommend adjustments if desiring ($200+) (not required cya if using covered most often) and this makes for the perfect opportunity for a cya (chemical) free pool.

The water quality is indicating there may be new water present. Recommend re testing in 1-30 days to confirm if water loss is in fact present vs evaporation.

It appears the two side skimmer (equalizer) covers are new / updated but the main drain cover is likely due for updating ($200+). If side need to be as well ($100 x 2).

The skimmers x 2 have a need for new float , o ring , and weighted baskets ($500) to being this back to ideal serviceable condition. I also suspect that a new weir door may be needed soon ($200)

Bottom cleaner is not present , there is a fair amount of leaves present, recommend a robot cleaner due to “self cleaning status” = pop up jets are also likely due to be updated ($50 each X approx 12) + service to self cleaning mechanism ($750+ - 1250+) vs a robot bottom cleaner instead ($450-1250 without potential less than perfect result).

Also the in floor canister is due for service / not closing latching ($400+)

Hose only seen. An automated fill can run from $100+ for a simple over the edge vs a $800+ wireless version.

Both working condition but I do see what I feel is condensation present inside the light lens, if so, the cost of these architectural LED Pentiar Lights is approx $1200 each x 2 + install $500+

18 psi at 2800 rpm. Overdue for service ($150+) to clean the elements and check for repalcement element need ($700+) if due which may be likely due to waters currently condition and high psi.

Working Without Issue. It’s display cover is off may require some attention via special tape or effort ($50+) to solve.

The heater is not working at this time , states air flue temp sensor error. Recommend attention to resolve via service to confirm issue ($450+). Currently has a leaking bypass ($400+) and a corroded heater burner protective cover.

Working panel, without issue except = (the plastic overlay display sticker cover) has warped , can likely be corrected with some technical effort ($200+). If not they sell them online for $200+ likely not needed anytime soon.

The breakers are GFCI to variable equipment. The plug breaker is GFCI compliant.

Displays working status but no chlorine present, with a water temp above 55-65.

Likely the cell is bad ($950+) and will need to be updated.

A better option in my opinion is an erosion chlorine feeder like the “CMP Power Clean Chlorinator Tower” @ $150

Or

Uv and or Ozone. A unit with both is CMP / Del Aop 25 ($1500+ install).

I would chose both over salt.

All Valving is older and chlorine / salt abused and also of low quality Valving vs higher quality. It would be wise to consider updating by replacing sections ($500+) / or updating all new fresh plumbing ($1k+) all together in most spots especially if considering removing the salt. You can then also add a plumbing heater bypass ($500+) to prolong heater life.

Recommend covering from UV asap ideally with a shed type structure that allows a full body to walk easily around the filter and equipment.

Also I see the chlorinator unions are split and due to be updated now ($200+).