The fencing accessing to the backyard appears to need some minor adjustments to self close and self latch.

But there also appears to be removable safety fencing appears to have been removed and set aside on the pool equipment pad, and it all looks to be in good condition. I can’t confirm if it’s fully working, such as the swinging gates and mounted poles, but overall the poles and everything seem in good shape. A few have some rust on them, but that doesn’t appear to affect the rigidity or sturdiness of the fencing.

The pool surface looks like it’s been painted over what was likely an old plaster or possibly just a concrete base. The paint is in fair condition overall, but it almost seems more like primer than actual paint because of the color. There are wear markings and footprints visible in the deep end, with wear marks present throughout. I wouldn’t classify it as better than a C+ paint job— it doesn’t look too old, but it’s already wearing away pretty quickly. I’d estimate this paint surface might last another 1 to 12 months before repainting is needed. Also, the older filter elements that were inside the filter, now sitting out of the filter replaced, are slightly covered in this paint, which suggests it’s wearing off and clogging the filter. On top of that, I can tell the filter pump has been running at high pressure for a long time, basically wearing it out (currently grinding motor from over heating), which is a common issue with paint—it coats the filter elements, clogs the system, and causes a lot of trouble quickly. It may be wise to consider resurfacing the pool in the next 1 to 24 months, which would involve removing all the paint at around $1,000 to $2,000, stripping any previous surface leftover, and then re-plastering the right way, which would likely run between $10,000 to $12,000 additional.

The majority of the waterline tile appears to be in good condition overall for its age. At first glance, it almost looks nearly new, but likely it was just recently cleaned and a new fresh layer of paint applied to the coping, which helps add some additional luster to the older existing tile that’s probably older than 25 years. Still, upon very close examination, it’s clear these tiles are older, and it appears to have some type of coating or epoxy applied over the top that’s bubbling, which will likely need to be cleaned off at the next cleaning and/or plaster stage. There is an obvious major issue where the skimmer meets the pool skimmer throat, with significant leaking and water loss present; it is likely that this entire skimmer will need to be reset and re-waterproofed. I would estimate around $1000 or less to accomplish the tile cleaning, which may also include some attention to the lower sections of tile; and anywhere from $2,000 to $5,000 to correct the skimmer issue.

The water quality is poor, possibly even terrible. The alkalinity and pH are way out of line and very low, which will negatively affect all aspects of the surface and pool equipment, especially if there’s copper plumbing underground, which it may likely be in some capacity. Additionally, there is no chlorine in the water, and the cyanuric acid level is also zero. Calcium hardness is nearly zero, indicating that this is likely freshwater or consistently filled water—a.k.a. a leak may be present, which I feel is very likely as I’m seeing literal water loss at the skimmer and possibly other areas. I recommend chemical treatments likely $375 or less to properly balance and remove organics likely present in the water.

The main drain cover was updated to a new compliant VGBA cover, but the main drain itself is not compliant, so keep that in mind during the next re-plaster stage. It would be wise to install an in-floor channel drain for safety and better bottom cleaning, as the in-floor main drain cover won’t jam up a bottom cleaner—it’s called a floor drain. At the plastering stage, it will likely cost less than $1000 to update to the in-floor channel drain, but at this time, no updates are required.

The skimmer has been detailed in the tile section, but I will also note that it is due to have it float, possibly updated weird door and a better lid if possible, and a weighted basket ($300), otherwise this skimmer appears to be in ready for updating condition).

The bottom cleaner looks almost new and is kicking butt as far as the bottom cleaner goes. You can even see some of the blue coming off onto the white bottom cleaner’s tires. Overall, I don’t think it needs anything right this second except for possibly one additional hose swivel and a new tail in the next six months ($105 or less), and possibly one new tire in the back right rear, but again in the next six months, not anytime soon. Therefore, this estimated cost is preventative to purchase these items and have on hand for when these expire on this unit.

The pool light (possible 12 volt) appears to have water and condensation inside the light lens and should be replaced ASAP for safety. Typical cost for a new Pentair LED white light is around $950 versus the color version at around $1200 plus installation at around $300; it is needed here for safety.

Special note that where the pool light potentially is coming out of the ground, there’s an extension cord ran that may be connected to the pool light, which is not only not up to code, but not ideal as the light niche needs to be waterproof, this is a potential issue, and if this is in fact, a cord that has ran from the pool light, it would cost like likely around $1-3k to re establish a conduit to junction box - since this is not confirmed, I did not included in the total.

The filter itself is leaking from its pressure gauge assembly and likely the tank O-ring and possibly the drain plug O-ring. Still, it cannot be confirmed as there is limited access to this filter to examine further, but note that this filter is older and there may be additional issues present, though generally not likely as this filter is fairly robust, and it does not appear to be older than 25 years. I would recommend service to confirm at $150+ repairs to the O-rings and replacement of the O-rings for another $200 and a new pressure gauge for $15.

The filter pump is nearly new, less than three years old, so therefore it will be covered under its manufacturer warranty, but it does sound as if the motor is nearing expiration, grinding, indicating that the bearings are likely failing. It’s odd because this pump has a sticker on it showing that it is less than one year old, likely less than six months old—this may be due or caused by too high of pressure for too long, which translates to too dirty filter elements for too long, wearing out and overheating this pump, causing its bearings to expire prematurely. Either way, this repair should likely be a manufacturer-covered issue for free, but if it is not, I would estimate the cost of less than $850 to repair outside of manufacturer warranty, if found to be negligent, which in my opinion it is, but they may not discover that.

Without issue. Near new.

The board and timer appear to be loosely connected and due for minor updating for safety, which will include adding a GFCI breaker for the variable speed future pump and GFCI for the future pool lights, even though the pool light itself at the junction box near the pool light has a GFCI—it will likely need to be updated as well since it’s not currently tripping or resetting. I would estimate this safety update to cost around $350 in parts and about $350 for an electrician service call, which will also update the timer’s mounting potentially to make it a little bit easier to access and more stable.

I’m noticing that we do have PVC plumbing, which is great—maybe the copper plumbing was upgraded to PVC. But it’s only an inch and a half suction and inch and a half return, with a 1 inch bottom cleaner port return. Also note that there is a booster pump here that’s powering the bottom cleaner, but typically the bottom cleaner is powered by the one filter pump only and not a secondary booster pump. It’s a little unusual, but that is likely why the bottom cleaner is working so well with so much power. Overall, there’s no major changes I would make other than modifying the bonding wire slightly for $100 and investigating what this random wire assortment is doing on the pool equipment pad, hidden underneath the safety fencing out of the way—it’s apparently four wires, unknown as to if it’s electrified or a danger, therefore I’ll classify it as a potential danger hazard due for attention ASAP at $300. I also recommend painting, labeling, and covering from UV with the UV mesh at $300.