The spa and pool, both fiberglass inserts, show heavy wear with very cloudy water, limiting visibility to 5-10% and making it hard to fully assess the surfaces. Wear markings are visible on the top steps of both the pool and spa. If no cracks are found, re-gel coating the surfaces is recommended, costing between $10,000 and $15,000, which is comparable to replacing the shells entirely, plus installation. The surfaces likely have little life left if untreated. Patching the worn areas is advised to extend their remaining life, though this depends on restoring water clarity to confirm their condition. Total estimated cost: $10,000 to $15,000 for re-gel coating, or patching at a lower cost to be determined.

The water in the pool and spa appears fresh, possibly indicating recent refilling after draining and cleaning, or potential water loss. Cyanuric acid and calcium hardness levels are low, while chlorine is low and pH is high, causing an imbalance. Immediate chemical treatments are needed to restore water clarity and quality, costing around $375. Total estimated cost: $375.

The main drain in the pool cannot be seen due to poor water clarity, making it unclear if one exists, while the spa’s shallow depth allows the main drain cover to be visible. The spa’s cover needs updating, costing around $150, and the pool likely has a similar main drain requiring the same update. Neither drain is VGBA compliant, which must be addressed during resurfacing, but updating the covers now is recommended for safety to prevent injury. Total estimated cost: $300, assuming both pool and spa drain covers are updated.

The skimmer is older, with the piece at the bottom not mounted correctly or missing parts, requiring $150 for replacement parts. Servicing to remove and replace this piece will cost about $200. Adding a weighted basket and a weir door is still recommended for improved functionality, costing another $200. Total estimated cost: $550 to restore the skimmer to better working condition.

The spa skimmer is a front loading style and is older, recommend also adding a weir door ($100).

I know there’s a good chance that these skimmers are no longer fully waterproof and we need some new putty added ($300+).

Even though you could potentially update this unit and get it back working again and updating a lot of of its parts it would still be wise to purchase New as the age of this unit is relatively old.

This is manual fill apparatus is a booby trap. Recommend removal and replacement to prevent accidentally filling the pool forever ($250+).

The pool light, a standard 10-inch can size, has water inside the lens, indicating it needs replacement. The junction box is less than 10 feet away. A Pentair white LED light is recommended for its durability, costing around $900 with $350 for installation, though cheaper options exist. Total estimated cost: $1250.

The spa light is either taped over, missing, or both, and appears to be a unique 6 to 8-inch specialty light can, which could make replacement difficult. A new light can is estimated to cost around $900, with installation at about $450 due to the additional work required to trace its connection. Total estimated cost: $1350.

The filter is old and leaking, past its usable life. It needs servicing, including the O-rings and likely the filter element, and possibly the pressure gauge. Servicing could cost up to $500. Replacing the entire filter would cost between $500 and $800 for a standard model, or up to $2800 for a high-quality one. Total estimated cost: $500 to $2800, depending on servicing or replacement.

Working without issue.

The booster pump is leaking from its return connection, possibly due to a simple issue fixable with Teflon tape or a cracked housing, which seems likely. Fixing the leak with tape would cost about $125, but replacing the pump is recommended due to a potential crack and its condition. The pump is over 10 years old, in poor shape, with rattling bearings indicating it’s in the last 5-10% of its life cycle. Replacement, including better plumbing, would cost around $500 for the pump and $500 for installation. Total estimated cost: $125 to $1000, depending on repair or replacement.

Working. Older. Likely not going to function much longer. A replacement is $500-750 + install $500.

The heater turns on and operates but only stays lit for less than 10 seconds before shutting off, despite its age, which is surprising. It shows signs of water loss from the bottom, indicating the metal heat core is expired. Removing and replacing it with a similar model is recommended. Installing a new model costs around $4800, and removing the old heater is about $400. Total estimated cost: $5200.

The electric board has two timers: one for the filter pump, always on, located on the east side, and one for the booster pump on the west side. There are three switches, possibly for lights, and two electric outlets. No GFCI protection is present for any equipment, so updating to GFCI for the variable speed pump and pool lights is recommended at about $300. Adding a water bond is also advised for another $300. An electrician should secure the wobbly electric panel, which needs urgent attention to prevent hazards, costing around $400. Total estimated cost: $1000.

The plumbing on the equipment pad is all inch-and-a-half, matching the filter and filter pump, which is adequate for now, though upgrading to two-inch plumbing could be considered in the future. Two old Ortega valves on the suction and return lines need to be cut out and replaced. The current plumbing setup, likely used to fill the pool, is complex and outdated, especially with the heater potentially being removed. Condensing and replacing the plumbing to make it more efficient and durable for 30 to 50 years is recommended, costing around $1500. If a new heater is planned later, pre-plumbing a heater bypass for an additional $750 is advised to simplify future installation. Total estimated cost: $1500 to $2250, depending on whether the heater bypass is included.