The pool surface is generally in good condition, with the entry surface performing surprisingly well, showing no visible cracks, which is excellent. However, there is staining in the main drain area and on the returns, typical of past salt-like conditions. The staining in the shallow end can be removed if desired, though the deep end stains are likely permanent. Removing the shallow end stains will cost approximately $300 to $400 for service and parts.

The waterline tile is natural stone with mortar, which is typically less watertight, especially the mortar, but it appears in good condition. Concerns include potential issues inside the skimmer throat and minor areas around the pool waterline. These can be tested and re-mortared if needed, costing approximately $500 to $1000.

The waterfall shows signs of water loss on its backside, likely due to deteriorating mortar, and may have issues in other areas. A minor remodel with re-waterproofing is recommended, costing approximately $500 to $1000.

The coping around the pool has several loose sections, which, while not an immediate danger, will soon become one. Tapping around the entire pool is recommended to identify all loose areas, followed by resetting the coping, including the skimmer main coping stone and other affected sections. This repair is likely to cost $1000 to $2000 or more.

The water quality indicates that the CYA levels are low, and that the free chlorine is slightly low. Recommend minor modifications ($100) to bring these levels back to ideal more specifically the CYA level.

Additionally, there is signs of allergy presence at the Tile waterline - therefore recommend minor water treatments to resolve ($125+).

Water loss appears to be present at the pool equipment pad.

The skimmer, located on the west side of the pool, has an automatic drain port on the side that appears non-functional, possibly capped with epoxy or old glue. The collar at the top, which houses the lid, is broken and needs replacement. For the Hayward 1070 skimmer, a new collar, skimmer basket, float, and float O-ring are required. A new weir door may be needed in 5 to 10 years but not currently. Parts and labor for these updates will cost approximately $500.

The pool has three main drain covers, with two likely being equalizer lines or waterfall suction ports, which are probably not VGBA compliant, requiring plumbing modifications costing $600 or more. The main drain covers, all over seven years old, should be updated for safety. Replacing the three covers costs about $100 each installed, totaling $300. Compliance can also be achieved by updating to a low-profile channel drain during the plaster stage.

The bottom cleaner, a robot-style unit, is currently functioning without issues. To switch to a self-cleaning system with a bottom cleaner, expect an additional cost of $600 for a new cleaner unit, plus the booster pump installation outlined in the booster pump section, costing approximately $1500.

The auto fill lid needs replacing with an MP auto fill lid, costing about $50. The auto fill is running, audible within 6 inches of the float, indicating it’s refilling water. If it runs more than 30–60 minutes daily, it could signal water loss (which we are obviously seeing on the pool equipment pad). Check again at the end of the inspection to see if it’s still running. Recommend a service to check the float or canister for issues, priced between $125 and $250.

The pool has two lights: one spa-size and one regular pool-size. Both are causing breaker trips when turned on, and condensation is visible inside the lenses, particularly in the main pool light, indicating they need replacement. A new white LED main pool light costs about $900, and a new white LED spa-size light costs about $700. Installation for each light is approximately $350, totaling $700 for labor.

The filter has an older pressure gauge showing near-perfect pressure, suggesting recently replaced filter elements, but the gauge’s age raises doubts about its accuracy. A minor service of $25 is recommended to open the filter and confirm the element status. If elements need replacement, costs range from $300 to $400, though this seems unlikely now. A new pressure gauge, likely $50 or less, is probably all that’s needed. The filter is heavily worn but leak-free. Erosion has pushed rocks and debris around the filter, which should be cleared to ensure trouble-free operation.

The filter pump, a high-quality 2016 model, shows significant motor body issues (difficult to see in this picture, but very much there) and water loss underneath, indicating a compromised motor and seals needing immediate repair. The motor body likely ran hot for an extended period, causing this wear. Since the pump is discontinued with no available replacement parts, a new pump is likely required, costing approximately $1500 to $2800 installed.

The booster pump, likely from 2003, is very old and buzzing, indicating it’s due for replacement. A new pump costs between $500 and $800. For automated pool cleaning, hard plumbing is recommended over soft plumbing, as the current robot (in pool) cleaner requires manual operation, while a booster pump system with a bottom cleaner is more efficient. The new pump installation will cost approximately $1500, and the bottom cleaner, detailed in its section, costs about $600.

The waterfall pump is in damaged condition with a leaking shaft seal, requiring repairs estimated at $400 to $600, which includes removing the pump and having a motor shop fix the issue. The motor also sounds like it’s struggling and nearing the end of its lifespan, so updating it may be wise. A new motor, particularly a variable-speed one, would cost between $700 and $1200.

The timer has a simple issue: an open port on the side, likely from a recently detached door hatch. This can be easily covered to prevent water ingress into electrical components, with no recent water damage apparent. The breakers are older but in fair condition, with no major issues, though they are not GFCI. Upgrading to GFCI is recommended, including one variable-speed breaker and one for the pool lights, costing about $300 in parts. Additionally, a smart light switch box with two zones—one for pool lights and one for the waterfall pump—can replace the older switches for $50. Total installation by an electrician is approximately $300.

The valving and fitting section’s plumbing is in fair condition, showing significant sun wear. It can be painted and re-labeled for under $200 and ideally covered with a UV mesh for $50 to protect it. The single valve present feels in good shape but could be repacked for $150 to ensure another 10 to 20 years of perfect operation.