The swimming pool’s surface is an older pebble finish, likely 20-25 years old. The absence of tile at the waterline has reduced plaster longevity, particularly in that area. Around most of the waterline, an unusual black line, initially resembling a crack, is actually organic matter buildup. This indicates significant plaster wear, likely down to the gunite, creating a microscopic breeding ground for organic growth. The plaster along nearly the entire waterline appears compromised. A short-term fix involves cleaning the affected area, but the long-term solution is replastering. Replastering only the waterline is impractical due to color-matching issues and high costs compared to replastering the entire pool, which offers better value. The lower basin’s pebble plaster is in fair condition, showing fewer issues, likely due to frequent and significant water level fluctuations.
Pricing Overview:
Waterline cleaning (short-term): Cost not specified (likely minimal)
Full pool replastering: $10,000-$12,000+.

Re Water proofing the water line may run 1-2k but again re plastering is likely the best remedy for this situation.

Additionally, this surface does make it difficult to identify structure issues which there appears to be a slight potential issue near the skimmer on the south west side of the pool, still I do see significant settling occurring around the pool, mostly seen on the last 50% of the pool and lower basin concrete area areas, so when I see this, I look twice as hard for structure issues inside the pool, so some potential issues may be present, and further settling may cause additional issue. Recommend dye testing this surface to confirm its water tight status ($100-450+).

This section addresses the coping, concrete work around the pool, and spillover tile, as no waterline tile is installed. The concrete around nearly the entire pool is settling, likely due to poor compaction and foundational work, exacerbated by ongoing wet conditions and the sloping, wet backyard property. The most concerning areas are the south and north sides of the main pool, where gaps between the coping and concrete create trip hazards. Estimating repair costs is challenging without opening or jacking the area, but concrete jacking and leveling, including filling gaps with mastic, is estimated at $3,000-$7,000. The spillover tile from the pool to the lower basin is compromised and needs resurfacing, including the natural stone on the basin-side tile face and stonework. This costs $2,000-$3,000, potentially up to $4,000 depending on tile options, with large-format ceramic pool tile recommended over small tiles or natural stone. The lower basin’s coping wall and seating wall show cracks and minor blemishes from settling, but the spillover tile is the most compromised, likely leaking, and requires the most urgent attention, included in the $2,000-$4,000 estimate.
Pricing Overview:
Concrete jacking and leveling (including mastic gap filling): $3,000-$7,000
Spillover tile and natural stone resurfacing: $2,000-$4,000

There is calcium buildup on the spillover area, but it would be wise as to just consider replacing all this tile when you go to re-waterproof free motor it instead of concerning about the calcium. The calcium buildup on the water line of the pool and lower basin likely is too difficult to remove without harming the surface.

The current water chemistry suggests possible water loss, as indicated by low calcium hardness and low cyanuric acid levels. Chlorine is also low, while pH and alkalinity are elevated. Algae is visibly present in the pool.

It will likely cost between $300 and $400 to clean and chemically treat the pool. This estimate does not include salt. If water loss is confirmed, adding salt would not be advisable, as it would continue to leak out. However, if needed, re-salting a pool of this size would typically cost between $300 and $500.

Estimated total for treatment (excluding salt): $300–$400
Estimated additional cost for salt (if needed): $300–$500

The pool has one in-floor drain and two wall suction points, more than 3 feet apart, making it VGB-compliant, and the lower basin has three additional drains, totaling six. Updating all six drain covers is recommended for safety to prevent potential injuries, with each cover costing $100 installed. The main pool body lacks a dedicated main drain unless tied into the floor cleaning system, which should be considered. The lower basin drain should be used sparingly, ideally less than an hour daily, to minimize tile wear on the spillover and ensure proper circulation in the main pool body.
Pricing Overview:
Drain cover updates (6 covers): $600 ($100 each, installed).

The pool has only one skimmer, with the lower basin lacking a dedicated skimmer, causing the entire lower basin to act as a skimmer. This is suboptimal, as debris accumulates in the lower basin, creating a breeding ground for organic matter. Installing a variable surface skimmer via plumbing modifications could address this, but it’s not currently pursued. The existing skimmer aids surface skimming in the main pool, while the lower basin suffers without one. The skimmer’s surrounding concrete is settling and lifting, stressing the skimmer and causing visible issues, including previous repairs in the skimmer throat. This settling has led to significant cracking and repairs inside the skimmer, indicating it’s compromised and actively leaking water. Correcting this requires jackhammering the affected area, leveling the concrete with jacking, and potentially fixing the autofill, costing $3,500-$5,500.
Pricing Overview:
Skimmer repair and concrete jacking (including potential autofill fix): $3,500-$5,500

The in-floor cleaning system has approximately 13 pop-up heads, all either needing service or due for replacement. These are larger, more costly heads, priced at $100 each, totaling $1,300 for all. Updating all heads is likely necessary if the floor cleaning system is to be used, though this is not recommended. Alternatively, a bottom cleaner port at the mid-end wall can support a bottom cleaner like the Pool Cleaner Four-Wheel with an in-line leaf basket, costing approximately $600.
Pricing Overview:
In-floor pop-up head replacement (13 heads): $1,300 ($100 each)
Pool Cleaner Four-Wheel with in-line leaf basket: $600

Additionally, note that the floor cleaning system will likely need service to it two gearing chambers, which could go up to approximately $1000 including parts and labor each x 2. Therefore a suction cleaner at $600 it’s not only the better value, but also my opinion a better option for cleaning.

There are two auto fills: one in the main pool (upper level) and one in the lower basin. The lower basin auto fill appears to have been added after construction for unknown reasons. It has been roughly installed using straps and putty—a makeshift setup—but it is currently functional. However, due to the nature of the installation, it may not last much longer without service or a replacement float. Estimated cost for repair or replacement ranges from $125 to $250.

The upper auto fill is located under a tightly sealed lid and could not be accessed during this inspection. Based on its position—very close to the skimmer—and the visible foundation issues surrounding the skimmer (as outlined in the skimmer section), it is likely the upper auto fill canister may also require replacement in the near future included in the skimmer estimate.

The pool has two 10-inch style pool lights: one in the main pool (disassembled) and one in the lower basin, with the latter showing condensation or water inside the lens. Replacing both with LED white lights is recommended, costing $900 per light can plus $400 per installation, totaling $1,300 per light. A third light appears to be a fiber optic illuminator output, though no illuminator tower was identified. If confirmed as fiber optic, each lens costs $500, connected to a $500 LED illuminator tower, plus $500 for labor to install the tower and update to LED style.
Pricing Overview:
LED white light replacement (2 lights): $2,600 ($900 light can + $400 installation each)
Fiber optic illuminator lens and tower (if applicable): $1,500 ($500 lens + $500 tower + $500 labor)

Note that on the north side of The Pool in a similar position as the south side of the Pools fiber optic clear lens, there appears to be a return fitting that they may have swapped with a return fitting instead of a clear lens to throw off someone looking and inspecting Still if that is the case add on another 500 for that to have a new LED emitter as well ($500? Not included in total).

The pool’s filter is a large System 3 S8M150, a 450 ft² cartridge filter. Upon startup, the filter pump was starved for water, with consistent air intake preventing circulation for 2-5 minutes before achieving prime. The filter pressure then read 28 PSI, indicating high pressure and the need for immediate servicing, likely requiring a new filter element costing $800-$1,000 (higher in summer due to price surges). The filter tank O-ring, due for replacement because of leaking, costs $50-$100, with servicing for both the element and O-ring at $150. Given the filter’s poor, damaged condition and age, repairs are not recommended. A new, higher-efficiency filter would cost $800-$2,000 or more.
Pricing Overview:
Filter element replacement: $800-$1,000
Filter tank O-ring replacement: $50-$100
Servicing (element and O-ring): $150
New higher-efficiency filter: $800-$2,000+

The filter pump is an older pump body with a slightly updated motor, a high-energy-consuming 2 HP (potentially upgradable to 2.5 HP), using 1,500-2,500 watts. In contrast, a variable speed pump uses 100-500+ watts. Updating to a variable speed motor, installed for approximately $1,250, would provide energy savings. However, a better investment is the Pentair IntelliFlo3 variable speed pump, offering the highest efficiency, installed for approximately $2,800.
Pricing Overview:
Variable speed motor upgrade: $1,250
Pentair IntelliFlo3 variable speed pump: $2,800

The additional pump, likely for a waterfall feature or in-floor cleaning system, is operational but in poor condition. It shows a temporary pipe clamp on the suction side, visible leaks or cracks in the plastic housing, and leaks from the return side. Plumbing repairs for the suction and return side check valves are estimated at $1,000. Repairing the return side leak costs $300-$600 if the housing isn’t cracked; if cracked, add $600 for housing replacement. The pump’s high-energy motor suggests upgrading to a variable speed or energy-efficient model for long-term savings, though specific costs for this upgrade weren’t provided. Given the pump’s wear and questionable installation, full removal and replacement, including reworking the plumbing layout and consolidating double check valves into a single, properly placed check valve, is estimated at $1,500-$3,000.
Pricing Overview:
Plumbing repairs (suction and return check valves): $1,000
Return side leak repair: $300-$600
Pump housing replacement (if cracked): $600
Full pump removal and replacement (including plumbing rework): $1,500-$3,000

The equipment board and timer have been recently updated and are currently up to code.

However, if future-proofing is a goal—especially to accommodate upcoming 2025 standards for variable-speed pumps and GFCI protection—expect additional costs. Upgrades may include approximately $300 in electrical parts, $50 for a smart timer for the pool lights, and around $300 for installation by a licensed electrician.

Total: $650

The salt chlorinator control panel and cell do not appear to be very old—likely updated within the last 5 to 10 years. However, they do not seem to be functioning properly. The controller shows signs of a fault; when the power button is jiggled, it cycles on and off repeatedly, which typically indicates an internal issue.

In my opinion, these components are lower-quality models, and when problems like this arise, the most effective solution is usually full replacement. A replacement control module can range from $800 to $1,200, and a new salt cell with sensors is typically in the same price range.

Estimated total: $2,500

There is minimal functional valving currently installed. Two valves are present on the suction side, while the return side shows signs of leaking. There is also a cone-shaped device in the return plumbing just before the water returns to the pool, though its purpose is unclear and likely unnecessary.

For peak efficiency, it’s recommended to remove and replace this section. This would include two new valves on the suction side at $400 each (installed), a check valve on the suction side, and full replacement of the return-side plumbing for approximately $700 (parts and labor).

Estimated total: $1,500