Working condition, self closing self latching without any trouble.

The pool plaster is over 25 years old and very worn. Pits are visible on the shallow steps and near the deep end drain. There are many blemishes, including a notable one from the east side pool light toward the deep end, likely from pressure washing. It seems surface-level, but a closer look is needed to confirm it’s not a crack. The east side step edges have sedimentation buildup, possibly indicating delamination on the south side, though likely not (75% sure). The many blemishes make it hard to fully assess the surface. Re-plastering will cost $10,000–$13,000 and is likely needed in 1–10 years.

The pool tile is fully intact and well-fixed with no major issues. A thin layer of calcium buildup is present, especially on the top tile layer, which can likely be removed for about $750. The transition from the skimmer to the tile needs attention, with reordering and resealing estimated at $500 to ensure it lasts another 10–30 years or more.

Even though the pool is clear and blue there is black algae present scene, mostly in the shaded area of the pool wall, and around the pool lights. Recommend doing treatments ($375x1 or 2) to remove or potentially just simply doing a drain and acid wash for best results ($750+)

And judging by the fact that the pool water smells old and the CYA level is so high / CAL hardness is nominal (older water), it may be wisest to opt for a drain and clean vs treatments.

The main drain cover is not VGB-compliant, and the main drain itself is also likely non-compliant. Updating the main drain will likely occur during re-plastering or cost $500–$1,000 if done separately. For safety, the main drain cover should be replaced with an STX retro cover, costing about $200 installed.

The skimmer needs a float valve and reactivation of the main drain line, which may be blocked, possibly since construction. A $125 service is recommended to confirm. In the meantime, installing a new float, O-ring, skimmer lid, and possibly a new weir door (due to tightness) costs about $500. The skimmer shows chlorine wear, yellowing, and softening, with minor cracking at the top from construction that doesn’t affect function.
Total Cost: $625

The bottom cleaner functions but performs poorly, rating 5/10 for performance and quality, and 2/10 for physical condition. Repairs would cost $200 or more, but replacing the unit entirely is recommended for about $700.
Total Cost: $700

The pool has two lights, both with water inside the lens, posing a safety risk. Replacing both is recommended. New white LED lights cost $500–$800 each, while color LED lights can reach $1,200 for top-of-the-line Pentair Lifetime models. For two $800 LED light cans plus installation of about $600, both lights should be updated. Non-lethal 12V lights (versus standard 120V) are available, requiring a $300 power supply plus $200 installation.
Total Cost: $2,200 (standard 120V) or $2,700 (non-lethal 12V)

The filter pump runs at 2,400 RPM with 10 psi pressure, but at startup (3,400 RPM), it reaches about 20 psi, indicating the filter elements need servicing. Cleaning the elements, lubing the tank O-ring, and resealing costs about $150 and should be done every 3–6 months, ideally every 3 months in summer. Due to black algae, the filter elements will likely need replacement after treatment, costing $500 for a new set, plus service.

The filter pump is over 15 years old, possibly original, and operates normally at first glance with no major issues. However, close inspection shows paint flaking and chipping on the motor body, indicating prolonged high-speed operation, likely due to dirty filter elements. This has caused overheating, oxidation, and damage to the motor’s metal structure. The pump likely has 1–3 years of life left, possibly up to 10 years. Replacing it with a top-of-the-line Pentair I3 variable speed pump would cost $2,800 installed.

The booster pump is in near-new, good working condition. The only issue is the soft hose plumbing, which could break loose over time, causing significant water loss. Switching to hard PVC plumbing is recommended to prevent this, costing $400–$600 installed.

The electrical board and timer need updates for safety. Upgrading the breakers to GFCI compliance for the variable speed pump and pool lights costs about $300. Replacing the two light switches with smart switches costs around $50. Adding a water bond is recommended for $300, with electrician labor at approximately $300.
Total Cost: $950

The plumbing and equipment pad are in fair condition, likely repainted a few years ago. Repainting with UV-protectant paint, relabeling, and covering the pad with a $50 UV mesh blanket is recommended to double or triple its lifespan. Additionally, installing a check valve on the pump’s suction side and addressing the double 90 issue would cost about $500 installed.
Total Cost: $550