There are blemishes seen some on the deepest step on the entry steps. There appears to likely be a wet spot stain present up upon the initial plastering stage that runs down from the floor cleaning to the main drain. To me the surface appears to be approximately 5 to 10 years old.

On the east side of the pool, closest to the Greenbelt, it appears that the raised concrete areas are settling down.

On the raised waterfall attached to the pool it is likely that this area is also being affected by the settling, and will require Repair ($1-5k+) to be able to use, to prevent water from sneaking through, and causing more settling.

Next to the coping specifically on 3/4 around the pool, we are seeing multiple elevation fluctuations likely caused by this settling, these affected areas will likely require grinding + mastic filling for temporary repair / injury prevention ($2k+) now. Vs long term rip out and replace ($5-10k+).

The water quality is indicating that the calcium hardness may be maintained, but the CYA is not / potential water loss = as we are seeing water loss on equipment pad currently + the auto fill is running continuously.

There are what appeared to be two separate main drain covers along with an in floor cleaning main drain. It would be wise to consider updating all three of these when they reach seven years old.

The skimmer on the north side of the pool, has a crack in it and will require either temporary repair ($100) or eventually replacement ($1500-3500+).

Skimmer is also missing its float and float o ring, recommend weighted basket as well ($400).

This unit isn’t working condition. It’s going to need some new tracks in the next one to three months ($25+).

The automatic filler is in working condition, however, it is running consistently, which generally gives me an indication that water loss may be present, recommend confirmation of this by doing minor service ($20+) to this float and confirming after service.

The pool light does turn on and function, but to me it appears that there is likely water present inside the light lens recommend updating ($700 can + install $400) after confirmation.

Filter is leaking from its tank O-ring and it is a possibility that the filter filter itself may be compromised due to the age and condition.

Still recommend service to the tank O-ring / elements to confirm status ($200+).

Pump is in working condition, without any major issue, except for the start stop button is delaminating and will allow water to enter this relatively expensive and obsolete controller, therefore recommend a close eye when consider considering this panel access door must be kept shut.

This heater is in working condition. A true surprise. I would not anticipate this heater lasting longer than another day, and every day after that is a miracle.

Once this heater does fail, it would be wise to consider a replacement versus any type of repair. Which is likely the reason it is still working today with brand new screws present, showing that it had been previously worked on relatively recently to get it “functioning”. Note one way that this heater will show that it is failing is when it fails to heat past 100°.

The cost for a new heater is approximately $4800 installed for a 400,000 BTU natural gas heater. It would be wise. You also consider adding a heater bypass to help prolong the life of the heaters elements ($500-1k+).

In the meantime, a drip leg is not present on the gas line ($500+) . It should be for longevity purposes of this heater or the next.

Equipment is being controlled by a set of light switches, a single automatic, yellow dial timer the power is a variable speed pump with a built-in timer.

It would be wise to consider updating the breakers to GFCI ($300) for water safety. And also adding a water bond ($300) to bring this up to 2025 standards.

The equipment pad is not covered from UV and should be repainted and re-labeled ($300+).