Non = self closing self latching swinging away from pool. Locked normally though it appears.

The surface appears to be a fiberglass resin epoxy / paint, while it appears to be in good condition, overall, I do see some bubble blemishes occurring on the east side of the pool wall and shallow end radius. The water quality is easily 50% resolution reduced making it difficult to see the entire surface, especially in the deeper end.

It is difficult to determine how old the surface is, but, it is in good condition overall. I do not see any missing surfaces - still only 50% of the pool can easily be seen.

The waterline tile appears to have some issues present with some of the mortar ie one location seen is between the rock waterfall and spa (gap in mortar present approx 13th tile from waterfall). This usually means that if we need to be rewarded soon and some locations ($500+) vs the entire tile area ($1500+). Recommend minor attention to the mortar cracked tiles.

Also, the spa spillover has some loose popping off tiles. This area will require repair to what extent will only be truly known once the tiles are removed. Approximate cost would be 500 to reapply and reseal the affected area Up to 1500-2500 If requiring more. Likely on the lower side is what’s actually needed.

There are locations around the pool decking that will need to be grinded down to prevent a toe, tripping hazard and re filled in with mastic ($500+).

The raised rock waterfall appears to be in fair condition overall but the mortar also needs to be redone in several locations. Worst case plan on re mortaring everything at $2500 down to $500 for smaller sections.

The chlorine is very high there appears to be no or nearly no Cya present, calcium hardness is slightly low - both - generally, indicating water loss is present or new water is present. With the chlorine levels this high I would also recommend not swimming at this time.

Recommend balancing the chemistry appropriately ($95+).

The skimmer is due to have its float o ring, weir door soon ($100).

Recommend updating the main drain of the pool + spa cover to VGBA compliant ($100x2). Note even with updated covers it is not VGBA compliant / safety compliant.

The bottom cleaner is getting stuck, even though the unit is relatively new and all wheels are turning. I am noticing the hose is slightly too long and likely needs a minor change, possibly the addition of one or two hose swivels or simply re positioning of the bottom cleaner rear jet to a different position (+/- $105).

Recommend a new light due to water being present inside the light lens ($575+ light $400 install)

Very light condensation present inside the light lens recommend updating soon for safety ($565 + light + 400 install).

An excellent filter choice. This is the same filter I have on my pool. My opinion, there’s nothing better. Still, it appears this filter internals is in question due to water clarity being so poor - it is clear it has not been serviced for quite some time with debris loaded found inside the site glass and a dead pressure gauge that is not functioning correctly and a poor quality quality push pole backwash valve that will spray the back washers and pants upon use. The sand may be due for replacement if it hasn’t been done in the past 5 to 10 years ($500) A new backwash valve would likely run approximately $500 installed. Because I Sediment in the spa there is a potential that one or some of the laterals inside of the sand filter are compromised and if so, expect another 500 and laterals.

Note that brand new a new filter with sand and a new backwash multiple valve would likely run approximately $1500.

Still start with backwashing and inspecting sand internals if possible and going from there.

The filter pump is like new without issue at this time. Recommend installing a Bonding connection for safety ($125).

This pump is like new however the hoses are due to be updated soon in the next one to five years ($250+).

Working. Blower.

To me, this is a miracle of the year ! This heater did turn on and function. Its flow sensor is working. This is likely the oldest still working outdoor Laars heater. I wouldn’t anticipate longer than 1-100 days of this operating. But with any luck longer. Approx cost to install a new 400k btu heater = $4800.

Recommend a gas line connection that’s rated for this heater ($500+).

It is clear this Intermatic dual timer box has been left open and corroded for quite some time. Is likely the internals of it are also compromised overtime judging by the external appearance is, still a new like panel is $380 + new required variable speed GFCI breakers + new pool and spa light breakers ($300) and an electric a can install a new sub panel / dual timer intermatic here instead soon for safety.

The solar controller is no longer powered but a like panel and actuator + temp sensors expect a cost of approx $1250.

This plumbing has been hacked together by likely one multiple upon multiple different service people causing longevity issues. From valves that don’t fully open or older outdated check valves in difficult to remove locations. Overall it would be wise to eventually plan for an overhaul and brought up to commercial specification level which is not that difficult. Likely you may need 8 new valves and some new connections / plumbing. This may cost $1500-3500 depending on options ie heater bypass / bottom cleaner bypass / etc.

Also recommend coving , painting , and labeling the equipment pad for longevity as well.