The concrete from the fence to the walkway is uneven, and a trip hazard likely will require grinding and filling ($125-1000) or other types of leveling services to resolve.

The surface is well worn likely older than 25 to 35 years and surprisingly in relatively good condition for its age however, well overdue for replacement.

In general, the surface is worn down to the gun night in several locations likely 50 to 100% of the pools surface. And may no longer be holding water, but equal potential is the water line rock (detailed in Tile section).
Still both the pool and the spa surface due both due be replaced sooner than later ($9-12k+).

The waterline tile all appears to be in older condition, loose tiles on spa spillover and north end of pool. And the same can be said with the waterline rock some mortar shrinkage present, However, both appear to be due to be re grout / mortared soon ($1500-2500+) and or checked for water loss pre re-model to confirm if they are sound if desiring to keep this rock at re plaster stage.

To me, it appears this pool has recently been drained and cleaned as the water is all brand new. No chemicals present. This can also tell me that there’s water loss present if the pool had not and instead has been re filled using its auto fill. Recommend adding certain chemicals and re checking in 1 - 10 days ($100) then a balancing ($300).

The main drain in the pool is older and do to have the cover updated for safety ($100) as it is not VGBA compliant.

There are two main drain covers in the spa that are both due to the updated for safety as well (every 7 years) $100 x 2).

The skimmer has its basket lodged in what appears to be semi stuck - recommend the right size basket , new weir door, float , float o ring, and new skimmer lid ($500) to regain control of this skimmer for proper service of this and the pool.

It appears the bottom cleaner is newer, and half filled with recent debris , However, the bottom cleaner pump is currently buzzing and likely expired. This pump is a low quality pump (Polaris) vs a higher quality (Pentair) that may cost $450 new.

Still, I would likely recommend a tail sponge on the bottom cleaner, and that is likely it ($25).

Upon arrival I found the auto fill was turned off with water supply, I am unsure as to why that is … still the auto filled device appears to be in working condition like new. Note that this fill has to be connected to a garden hose or at least a water supply which can easily be found on the opposite side of the pool on the south side vs current hose across walk way setup. The cueeent manual fill leaks and expect a cost of $125-250 to repair if desired.

The pool light is on the opposite side of the pool as the junction box, Making it a more difficult repair ($500) and new light can ($565 - 1500).

Note this pool light appears to have water present inside the light lens and is very old recommend updating for safety.

The spa light is less than 25 feet from the junction box making it a much easier repair ($350) + light can ($475-1050).

Note that while the pool light does not appear to have water condensation (less than 10%) in the light lens It’s Outer Metal ring has significant wear, indicating this is older and likely due for replacement.

The filter pressure is high at 20 psi. The filter itself is older than 15 years and is leaking at its tank, even though the band is relatively new and nearly tight as well as a bent tightening rod, Generally, indicating this filter is a high-pressure filter due to prolonged periods of being dirty. And on the west side of the tank, there appears to be some type of marking that may have just been a pressure washer blast ?, Overall, this is a poor condition filter.

Worst case I would expect a cost of $500 to replace the new filter elements and tank O-ring, but I would put that money into a new filter over updating and repairing this one.

A high energy consuming pump, that is being run hot for prolonged periods of time.

I would expect this pump to last another one to 10 years, but I would not recommend using it in that time as it has smaller plumbing and is a high energy consumer. A better pump would be a “super flow VS” By Pentair or the “i3” $1200-2800 installed.

Recommend a new pump lid soon ($50) otherwise the bearings / impeller cavitation sound of issue and this pump is slightly out of sync / will fail in 1 - 10 years.

Will not start up, buzzing. Recommend replacement ($450-1450 installed) or repair ($100+).

Older surprisingly able to function heater, but will not fully start up / likely will only run another 1 - 24 months / past 90 degrees if serviced ($600+) - not my recommendation due to age and condition. A working heating unit will require a gas line check for free from the local gas company (to measure for leaks / supply) and potentially upgrading the home’s gas meter at no cost to you. Still for a 250k - 400k btu heater installed new at the equipment pad expect a cost of $3800-4800 installed.

Working condition yellow dial Intermatic timers for the filter and booster pumps.

Switche present that runs to an open exposed wire with electric tape and wire nuts (not good). Recommend termination of this wire via service call ($125) and adding GFCI breakers to the pool and spa lights as well as the pool equipment via a junction box ($500+).

The light junction boxes do have a GFCI present but is not functioning ideally. Recommend replacement for safety.

The Valving on the equipment pad is all older and in damaged condition. Most of this valving has been finagled into working, This is not a realistic option for Ongoing function. Recommend cutting out this plumbing and installing new = 2x 3 ways, 1x check valve, and heater bypass if using automation for an expected cost of $1-$2k+. This will include painting and labeling as well as covering from UV.