The latch itself appears to be slightly damaged as it is able to close and latch when the lock is placed. It may be wise to consider updating the latch itself ($125+) for safety. Additionally, around the swimming pool, there are gaps larger than 9 inches and can easily be shored up to prevent access by little ones ($125+).

The steps in the shallow end are showing signs of issue and delamination, as well as missing plaster surface on the step edges where gunite is seen.

There are rust stains in the middle south end of the pool.

The Plaster in general is heavily worn and nearly down to the gunite in many locations

There are many scratches in the pool especially in the middle and west end.

Overall, the surface is in poor / damaged condition And it’s due to be replastered soon / now ($9-12k).

The waterline tile appears to be in fair condition overall with some mortar, grout missing between some tiles (skimmer) Are due to be updated for waterproofing ($500+).

Additionally, the rocks that are decorations around the pool are showing signs of missing mortar as well and is due to be updated ($1000+) to Prevent injury due to loose rocks.

Around the pool, there is some lifting and settling on three or four of the concrete sectionals. These likely can be corrected with concrete jacking procedure ($2K + ) or simply the edges grinded down to prevent injury or trip hazard ($1000+).

The water quality is indicating that water loss is not present at this time, but should be rechecked in one to 30 days to confirm.

Additionally, there is no chlorine in the water currently and CYA - Recommend adding both ASAP ($100+).

The main drain cover has been updated to a compliant cover however, the drain itself is not compliant. This can be updated during the replaster stage, which ideally would be a channel drain (1k+) to prevent the bottom cleaner from getting disturbed during its service rotation.

The skimmer appears to be over flowed / plumbed to exceed 6 fps on the suction line. Likely a float valve should be required to allowed this skimmer to function more appropriately as well as a float o ring , weighted basket, and lid ($300+)

Also note that the skimmer has been heavily chlorinated to the point where it is turned, black and brown, indicating the skimmer itself is compromised And during the Plaster stage, it would be wise to consider updating the skimmer for longevity purposes ($1000-3k+). Additionally, I do hear, hollow spots on both sides of the skimmer throat plastic indicating the skimmer is getting pinched and likely will fail soon.

This bottom cleaner unit is in fair working condition where it is due for a new tail and likely very minor tune up service ($105+) But I do feel that a suction side bottom cleaner here would function better than this unit like “the pool cleaner 4 wheel” but only may be a 10-50% improvement.

There is no auto fill present, but there is a manual fill located next to the pool equipment. It is functioning without issue. To install an auto fill into the pool itself expect a cost of approx $1k+. Or alternatively a hose connected auto fill is $80-125+.

There does appear to be 10 to 20% condensation on the inside of the light lens. It also appears this light is older than 25 years and is due for updating for safety ($575+ for the light + install ($375+).

Special note that a color changing LED Pentair 12 V light is approximately $1100 for the light can only + install required.

The filter pressure is indicating that it is likely due for backwashing and or service ($50-125+). Otherwise, this filter is nearly new and in like new condition without major issue. I am seeing that when the pump is running at a higher speed we are leaking from the tank O-ring recommend service to resolve. Note that the filters typically run at a higher pressure which then causes the filter to need maintenance and service to the tank O-rings more often fyi.

The filter pump is in working condition. The pump basket is only filled 65% indicating likely back pressure is causing this pump not fully prime. Additionally, the suction side connection of this pump has too hard 90s that should be eliminated and a check valve installed or best practice ($400) - per pump mfg requirements (check instruction manual to see their reference to never hard 90 before the pump let alone 2! 90s).

The panel has been updated with variable speed breakers, and a GFI aux / light breaker this is ideal.

Equipment pad has one three-way valve on it and one push pull backwash valve Additionally, it does also have a pressure gauge to help indicate function of the bottom cleaner. It would be wise to paint and label this equipment pad, as well as update the pressure gauge ($400).