Access was through garage door. There was no alarm on the door.

I feel the surface of the pool is approximately 12 months old. I do see there is some abnormal wear in the deep and shallow end and middle end of the pool sections. The abnormal wear present is likely due to poor water chemistry management, or poor plaster application. This issue can be corrected by replastering the surface ($10-15k) vs trying to repair the sections.

Note that the surface of the pool does have a light blue tint added to it as a result of likely water, chemistry issues where chlorine and copper in high levels, mixed and caused a discoloration layer to occur on the top surface of the plaster.

The tile present is less than three years old, and I do not see any abnormalities present. There is some discoloration in between the tiles as I am seeing a yellowing in some locations which may be due to abnormally high chlorine levels.

Water quality indicates that the chlorine levels are very high and should be modified ASAP ($100) otherwise all other factors of the water chemistry appear to be in Ideal Condition. Note that the water does appear to be older than five years, and therefore there may be a desire to drain and refill the water for essentially fresh water to use.

The main drain cover itself is VGBA compliant. It does appear that there is a considerable sump below the main drain cover.

The Skimmer present is ready to have its float and float O-ring updated ($100).

The main cleaner unit is missing - recommend a new unit (Polaris 280). The cost of the new unit is $550-$650

The manual fill is located on the south side of the property it is in working condition without issue at this time.

The light can looks nearly new, approximately 1 to 3 years old which would be unusual for this light to stop working in the timeframe. But I think is more likely is the fact that the light can has been updated with a faulty bulb that likely doesn’t match the rating of the light can and therefore it tripped the breaker and eventually cause the breaker to fail. Recommend replacing the light can complete ($750). If it is found that the GFCI breaker is in working condition, and the light does not turn on upon replacement GFCI at the equipment pad.

The filter is approximately 20+ years old And I suspect that the filter elements inside the filter are likely due for updating - based on the fact that the filter pressure is approximately 12 psi, which matched on the three-quarter horsepower pump motor would indicate the elements are due for updating if recently cleaned. The filter element set is approximately $500 shipped along with a new tank, O-ring and installation $250. Also, recommend updating the filter pressure gauge included in either of those services.

A alternative to the filter currently installed is the TR – 100 C or TA – 100 - Pentiar makes both. These are most ideal sand filter, alternatives while one is the commercial grade which is most ideal versus a residential grade TA series filter.

The filter pump is an inch and a half in taking returns style pump, However, the supply line is 2 inches, recommend taking advantage of the 2 inch option and increasing the size along with a larger pump, eventually, when desired (Pentair i3 or SuperfloVs).

The filter pump has a mild vibration which is seemingly stemming from the suction side of the pump and not necessarily the motor. This may be due to the older impeller installed, or an improper sized impeller for the motor. Overall, this filter pump motor will last likely another one to three years of life.

Note that the back of the motor is exposed and will need to be addressed with either parts and repair ($50-200) or the entire motor may need to be updated due to its age and lack of markings ($850+).

The booster pump has a new hose connections on the suction side, but an older style on the return side. I also see sun damage on the hoses. I recommend updating the hoses soon in the next 1 to 5 years ($300). The conduit connection is heavily sun damage. I would recommend at least painting this conduit to prolong its life ($50).

The timers installed are in working condition.

Do you want to switch below? The booster pump timer on the left-hand side is in working condition however, it is reversed. This could be corrected if desired ($100). And a most ideal situation. The two timers would share one single box versus two separate boxes. The GFCI will likely need to be updated along with an overall updating of missing pieces present on the electrical side, including updating the conduit to the filter pump ($750+).

There are no valves present.

I would recommend covering this equipment pad from UV using a UV mesh which can be purchased on Amazon for $50 or less - and also converting the booster pump hoses too hard plumbing three-quarter for approximately $400. And painting and labeling the equipment pad $50.